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I am looking at buying a R32 GTS-t with an RB26DETT conversion in it. Just want to know from people that have driven something like this what they drive like?

I use to have a R33 GTS-t with about 200rwkw.

Are they expensive maintance? Drive well? Not to slugish? Prone to brakage or play ups?

General feedback would be sweet as.

Cheers

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i've always thought that RB26 into a 33 GTST is one of the much underated combos out there. can make an easy 260 rwkw (with stock turbos, stoc injectors, stock cams, stock GTR cooler, stock dump pipes etc). and the weight difference between a RB25T and a RB26TT is not soo much.

however in a 32 GTST I'd prefer a worked RB20 (something like Roy's). it just seems to suit the car better as they are already quite a light, small car and the 20 can still make lots of power, and pull decent revs. plus in the 32, you need to get a 25 box to go with it. the 20 box wont last behind a decent 26.

If you want RWD RB26 I say go 33 GTST, or if you really want a GTST I say stick with the RB20, or do an SR20 swap. SR20 in 32 GTST is pretty sweet.

Its depends on youre budget dude to be honest.

What the use of the car is

What the power goals are

etc etc.

Give some idea and then people can go from there

Car will be used for everyday use plus a bit of fun here and there

Would eventually love 350+ rwkw (but by that time hopefully it will just be a weekender)

Edited by URAS_33

Hey BB,

i know u have a habbit of skim reading but he has said he used to own a r33 and is looking at a 32 that is already done.

As long as its not too pricey, has a 33 box in it and doesnt have a hand grenade for the motor i say go for it mate!!!

Be sure to post back here if you do buy it

:D

yeah, sorry i missed the bit about "use to have a 33" I looked at his profile and thought he still had one (since it says 33 GTST under "cars").

anyway, I still say either just buy a cheap RB20 GTST (they are crazy cheap now) and work it. or DIY a RB26 into a 33. I just think a 26 in a GTST will spoil some of the good things about the 32 GTST.

Heh yeah i know how it goes, its like not listening when someone is talking to you, we all have the habit :domokun:

I dont think the weight difference between the two cars would be great enough for it to matter which car they are fitted too. Everyone who converts to rb25 loves it same with the 30. i dont see why the 26 would be any different.

Dont get me wrong i love the 20 to death but at the end of the day its a heavy car for only a 20. Nissan should have just made a 22 instead of the 20 straight up :no:

Car will be used for everyday use plus a bit of fun here and there

Would eventually love 350+ rwkw (but by that time hopefully it will just be a weekender)

Ok, so how far is that away?

Because realistically 350rwkw is a 15k adventure, possibly more on the motor alone.

So before you put the motor in it would make sense to rebuild it and put turbos/dumps on it etc which is around the 10-12k mark give or take.

Will save hassle later on if you do it before you put the motor in... because if you wait till it fails (fair chance it will if you keep the stock turbos) then it will cost you more in the long run.

Getting the RB26 to 350+rwkw isnt cheap in any terms.

I've probably spent close to 15k in total for 300-330rwkw and thats just the motor side of it all.

Thats not including anything like brakes/suspension and all the other stuff you need to do.

I had an RB26 in an r32 GTST making 240rwkw with the rb20 box - it will cope with that power easily. Very quick car, should be even quicker once I finish my rb30 bottom end with GT2560r's - then we'll really see how much torque the rb20 box an handle - hopefully 1 full power dyno ramp.

I had an RB26 in an r32 GTST making 240rwkw with the rb20 box - it will cope with that power easily. Very quick car, should be even quicker once I finish my rb30 bottom end with GT2560r's - then we'll really see how much torque the rb20 box an handle - hopefully 1 full power dyno ramp.

Just to give ya an idea, i shredded my RB20 box with 270rwkw behind my RB25.

After the first 1/4 mile run there was a mild whine.

After the 5th run it was a constant loud whine that just became louder and louder regardless of how it was driven over the next 1000kms or so :sorcerer:

And i didnt even use sticky tyres :rolleyes:

So... i guess i got 2-3 months from the RB20 box before it died a dismal death. You should last a couple dyno runs you'd hope

have an rb20 box behind my 280kw rb20 with solid centre twin plate clutch for 5 months now, still good just noisy bearings, survived 4 runs with sticky e/t street tyres on prepped track

car came from japan with a rb31/20 combo, handled that aswell

i knwo of anouther 32 here in perth with a 550hp 26 infront of a 20 box, lasted ages aswell

treat it well and it should reward u with not breaking :stupid:

thats all good... but then theres the cases of 220kw and the box blowin itself up. i was under the impression these boxes were only good for 200ish?? so what exactly IS the rb20 gearbox good for?

AD4M: g's thats gotta be pushing the ol 20 box... 550hp? shit, was the 20 box's internals frozen and hardend first?

CJ

thats all good... but then theres the cases of 220kw and the box blowin itself up. i was under the impression these boxes were only good for 200ish?? so what exactly IS the rb20 gearbox good for?

AD4M: g's thats gotta be pushing the ol 20 box... 550hp? shit, was the 20 box's internals frozen and hardend first?

CJ

spot on buddy the box was indeed chriogenicly *spelling* frozen, but he went from that box to a 25, then back to a 20 box that wasnt treated and that is still going strong as far as i know (Was swapped some 6-7 months ago)

o ok. i can understand a box that has had its internals frozen handling the power, just not a standard one... we blew up a rb20box last sunday in the drift car (220kw). lol.

im getting all my gearbox's internals harden'd. iv been told it will then hold quite a fair bit more, just unsure on prices :S

CJ

thats all good... but then theres the cases of 220kw and the box blowin itself up. i was under the impression these boxes were only good for 200ish?? so what exactly IS the rb20 gearbox good for?

AD4M: g's thats gotta be pushing the ol 20 box... 550hp? shit, was the 20 box's internals frozen and hardend first?

CJ

cryo treating aint worth the money.

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