Jump to content
SAU Community

Rev Limit

BillyMako
 Share

Recommended Posts

sh@un Grand Master

sh@un

Posted
Posted

without changing to solid valvetrain (ala GT-R)- no more than stock. and even then, you'd be unwise to run higher cylinder pressures combined with higher revs on internally standard engines. more revs kills stock engines more easily than a sensible boost up/turbo change.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168657-rev-limit/#findComment-3117009
Share on other sites
Modena Grand Master

Modena

Posted
Posted
CCCP, I hit the redline all the time. Even though it's at 7200 rpm, seems to go a little higher - maybe about 73-7400 rpm, then it comes back down, like it bounces. I like the sound it makes.

I know what you're asking but matey, don't increase it at all.

Isnt when bouncing of the rev limiter you get flames coming out of your exhaust?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168657-rev-limit/#findComment-3118627
Share on other sites
Haysey Grand Master

Haysey

Posted
Posted

just bounce it off the limiter

its there for a reason

wont to any damage

do it at lights to gee people up before u race

bounce it all the time... dont even look at your tacho just wait till the car wont go any faster in that gear then change

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168657-rev-limit/#findComment-3120215
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...