Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Everything has pretty much been covered already all i'd add is take it easy on the track - you won't get a 2008 F1 drive by impressing anyone at the track and don't go out in the last open session of the day (this is generally when everyone pushes their car that little bit more coz it's their last bit of track time and end up breaking something).

^^ umm its a private booked out day.. think about 21 cars or so

hahahah yea nah i will take it easy around the track!! First few hours, will get to know the car and how it behaves etc..

Getting excited.. not long to go!!

ahha sorry dude..

some chick organised it with her friends, and i know one of her friends and he told me about it..

If you really are keen, i will ask her and see if there any spots left? its on 31st may

ahha sorry dude..

some chick organised it with her friends, and i know one of her friends and he told me about it..

If you really are keen, i will ask her and see if there any spots left? its on 31st may

oh that chick from ns.com?

watch out for the VLT's

Yup thats her..

hahah i know uh.. Shes got a rb25 in there!!

Btw quick question..

what tyre pressure should i run on track day?

current on 30-32 psi front, and same rear.. I find this combo best on street..

I have: Toyo T1rs- 235s 17s, and Advan Neveos Ad07 rears in 255s 17s..

Cheerss

if the brake fluid is boiling..chances are they are running inferior fluid....synthetic fluid whether it is motul or castrol....whatever brand....dont use road going crap ever on the track, waste of time. Weve been using castrol for the last 2 years, no problems ever.

Edited by r33_racer

Duncan, we use Castrol SRF brake fluid. Sorry for being vague, i just assumed its what everyone used, or the motul equivalent(RBF600 i think). Are we talking about brake fluid or power steering fluid mate? Im referring to a post on the first page i think it was about brake fluids. He mentioned he got some dot 5.1 and djr81 already told him to get rid of it and sid already mentioned his brake fluid had boiled before.

Power steering fluid, we just use your ordinary everyday road going crap from the caltex down the road(yes im a hypocrit)....and i can swear that it has never boiled or overflowed...ever. It once weeped from a fitting which i never did up properly, but no fault of the fluid just my stupidity. However, i did fab an ally p.s tank which is about 3 times the size of the std reservoir, and it got relocated to where the carbon canister normally sits. So not only does it hold significantly more fluid, but it also would dissipate the heat better then the std plastic one for sure, and it does get some descent airflow as we have no p.s headlight. Maybe im a genius in disguise, i fixed some typical problem without even knowing it existed. Could that explain our cars lack of p.s boiling and overflow...note we dont run a p.s cooler either!

Edited by r33_racer

The reason I suggested getting the dot 4 600 degree boiling point fluid is that it has a few things you need:

Higher boiling point than the dot 5.1 fluid.

It absorbs water more slowly (ie it lasts longer)

It feels better. (Mmm, lubricant :( )

The Motul stuff is <$30 a 500ml bottle which is cheaper than Castrol.

Here is a random article on brake fluids which should help explain things. Remember the 600 in the label RBF 600 refers to its dry boiling point in degrees F.

http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/fluid.shtml

With regard to power steering fluid the propensity to spit it everywhere is not the fluid boiling (Although it can be) but a function of a few things:

1. The car, eg does you R32 have HICAS - more likely to heat the fluid.

2. The track - lots of corners lots of power steering work - heated fluid.

3. The size of your cooling fins/radiator. The GT-R has a fairly gay steering fluid cooling system.

4. How much you put in the reservoir.

As the stuff gets hot (& it does get bloody hot) it expands - so if the reservoir is up to the brim it very quickly dumps stuff everywhere.

Like Michael said, just use the ordinary everyday fluid you can buy anywhere. It makes no difference.

I had the best fun yesterday!! Never knew my car could do things like that!! hhahaah

Btw my brake fluid or any other fluid didnt boil at all, and my car never gave me any problems!!!

I love my car!! she served me well yesterday!! lol

As for brakes it worked like a charm!!

Is there a section to post up times?

got 1.23 in my 33 (mods- just full exhaust and more boost.. everything else stock)..

however my friend drove my car and got 1.18.. Guess comes down to experience and guts..

Pretty good times considering its a fairly stock 33..

Would love to do track day again!!

Edited by siddr20

Penrite now make a 600deg fluid too, and it was only about $16 per 500ml. Worked well for me in the GTR at QR, which is very hard on brakes. And almost half the cost of Motul.

Times are here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=46199

siddr20 - now you have caught the bug you are basically screwed. Get used to spending all your money on go fast upgrades, maintenance, licence fees, membership fees, entry fees etc etc. Unfortunately there is nothing anywhere near as much fun as motorsport.

You will be amazed by how much quicker you will go next time......

Edited by djr81

Tell me about it. .

Wish i had a fmic, better supension gear, a bloddy tune!! and so on.. cant afford these things. .

But you reckon the times good for a first timer on a stockish 33?

sid already mentioned his brake fluid had boiled before

wow i never said?? nope brake fluid has never boiled..

nor does my power steering fluid.. ever!!

heheh

Edited by siddr20

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...