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hey guys

changed my gearbox oil this wkend - seems to have made a nice difference especially gear changes higher up the rev range (ie: when booting it). Heres the link on my site below...

anthonymcgrath.co.uk - changing your gearbox oil

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169551-changing-gearbox-oil/
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thanks motoman I'll amend my tut to include that :O

have to say at first I did think my filler plug weren't budging but it was just the glue/sealant around the thread. I was more worried at the very very loose gearbox drain plug!!

  • 2 weeks later...

although only going to work if there is two of you. i refill my oil by using a 1.5m piece of flexible pipe with a funnel attached to one end. (i think its about 12mm in diameter.. although could be bigger...)

Run the funnel though the drivers side of the engine bay. Have one person ensure that the pipe stays pointed into the gear box filler hole while the other poors the new oil into the funnel. much easier than getting up and down lotsa times.

Cam

If you have 3 different sized ratchets in a set, you'll find the biggest one fits in perferctly without any attatchments.

Also, i bought some of the red coloured sealant/thread locker to stop the screw coming loose later.

Can't remember what it was called.

If you have 3 different sized ratchets in a set, you'll find the biggest one fits in perferctly without any attatchments.

Also, i bought some of the red coloured sealant/thread locker to stop the screw coming loose later.

Can't remember what it was called.

i believe its called lock tight ?

I think you will find that it's a 1/2 " drive ratchet that will undo the bolts. also, on r33 you can remove the gearstick suround and rubber boot and just pour it in from inside the vechile

You sure pooring it in from the gearstick surround is ok???? sounds much easier.

My gear stick surround is all torn and broken is it posible for the oil to dry up??? changing gears seems very stiff just lately and did a box oil change only 10k ago!

hopefully i'll be doing this on the weekend and i'm gonna give the filling through the gearstick option a go (i'm sooo scared of pouring oil all through my car though cos I'm so impatient when pouring oil through a funnel!)

If that for some reason doesn't work (no reason why it shouldn't off course) i'll just use a $3 syphon hand pump i reckon.

  • 1 month later...

Thanks for the writeup!

However... I tried this today and failed :D First, I dented the chassis rail with a stand. I thought the chassis rail was supposed to be tough enough to put a stand under. Where is a good place to put stands?

Then, I couldn't get the filler plug out. I had about 40cm of leverage but it just wouldn't budge.

Just to be sure... it's anticlockwise to undo, like everything else, right?

Would it be OK to use a hammer on my lever to get it started?

First, I dented the chassis rail with a stand. I thought the chassis rail was supposed to be tough enough to put a stand under. Where is a good place to put stands?

Then, I couldn't get the filler plug out. I had about 40cm of leverage but it just wouldn't budge.

Just to be sure... it's anticlockwise to undo, like everything else, right?

Hi there, have a read of this for jacking locations:

jackinglocationgu7.jpg

Also, you could try using a hammer, but I recommend getting something to extend your breaker bar/ratchet... nice length of pipe to get some more purchase, and soaking it in some WD40 will help. The filler plug is tapered so thats why it's so tight...

And just remember lefty loosey, righty tighty :laugh:

  • 11 months later...

I might try this fairly soon. I was also told, if you are tight-arsed about doing it properly, you pour a litre and abit of kerosene into the gearbox once the oil

has drained. Start the engine and push the gearstick into gear (without the clutch) so its resting on the gear but not actually going into gear. Apparently this

engages the synchros and cleans them. Once done drain the kerosene, fill it up with oil + some nulon G70 stuff and should be good :thumbsup:

Ill be doing it soonish so ill post it up on how it goes :P

I might try this fairly soon. I was also told, if you are tight-arsed about doing it properly, you pour a litre and abit of kerosene into the gearbox once the oil

has drained. Start the engine and push the gearstick into gear (without the clutch) so its resting on the gear but not actually going into gear. Apparently this

engages the synchros and cleans them. Once done drain the kerosene, fill it up with oil + some nulon G70 stuff and should be good :thumbsup:

Ill be doing it soonish so ill post it up on how it goes :P

make sure u got room infront of ur car incase u do put it in gear and it hops into wall, other car, human etc. never heard of this mate but good luck with it

Edited by skylinekid
I think you will find that it's a 1/2 " drive ratchet that will undo the bolts. also, on r33 you can remove the gearstick suround and rubber boot and just pour it in from inside the vechile

My dad says thats how he did it on the old R31 we had. It just involves pulling apart the centre console, removing the boot and pouring it in from there. Not to way to do it if you have a habbit of getting oil everywhere... like me :bunny:

I'm going to change my gearbox oil this weekend (I think) so I'll take pics if I decide to do it from inside the car :happy:

  • 6 months later...
this is probably kinda stupid to ask, does the gearbox reservoir goes to lsd reservoir as well?are they linked?or they're both independent?

The LSD is a limited slip differential. The diff or diffs (in a GTR) have there own drain and fill up point, as the oil needs to be around the diff's crown and pinion wheels for lubrication.

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