Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have run Winmax W5's recently and they seem to hold up to a bit track work as well as slower stuff (hillclimb).[/size]

At Mallala in my GTR which is heavy on brakes they held up to 5-6 lap sprints with minimal change in feel.[/size]

The feel is different to the PMU club racer I usually run, there seems to be less initial bite, but the performance must be there (did a PB of 1:18.7 on them). Obviously the W5 is a lot cheaper than the PMU so great value for money. The W7 may be more suitable to more serious track duties.[/size]

The wear was minimal for the one track day. [/size]

I have some Winmax 6.5’s on order to try. Will run a few hillclimbs on them and maybe a track day earlier next year so it will be a while until i get feedback on them[/size]

Just to follow up.

I ran the Winmax W6.5 front & rear at "Legends of the lakes" and found them quite user friendly. Obviously being a short hillclimb event it's not heavy on brakes so can't comment on longevity, etc. but assume they will perform as good or better than the junior W5's which survived mallala

Significantly, they were very well behaved on the street. I used the car as my runabout while in Mt Gambier that weekend which was pleasant to drive around town (not too much noise and not like wood cold).

Seems like a great compromise pad between circuit, targa and even street

Grabbed some TRW Dtec pads installed on new RDA discs for the 5.

Excellent grip from cold to hot, rated to 650deg so OK for a couple of happy laps.

The Dtec is some low dust technology.

Haven't tracked with them yet but they have not missed a beat in all road conditions.

And no squealing.

My opinion;

Eats Bendix SRT alive

Better that A1RM for mixed use as they are better from cold than them, don't sqeal and have less dust (the A1RM is a higher rated pad though)

DISCLAIMER: The 5 doesn't really go fast enough for brakes anyway, LOL.

I recently used the A1RM pads all around along with new J Hook rotors off ebay. I wouldn't recommend the pads for street use, they need to be warm and they squeal on the road. On the track they are quite good, they have good bite. but after a couple of laps they will start to squeal a bit as they may get too hot. Will be using them till they're finished and then will try something new.

They are good if you are on a budget (like I always am)

Amir

Edited by Abdul11

I have to agree with nizmo. I run a1rm pads. Quiet and don't feel like they are bricks when cold. Also took them to wakefield and they stopped the car every time down the straight, thank God Haha. Will be using them again at wakey next week.

I have been through a lot of info on here but there is too many conflicting opinions.

I have 170 at the rear in my 33 and I like a bit of spirited mountain runs, don't see myself doing track days yet.

Should I get the following:

QFM HPX all around

DBA or RDA slotted rotors all around

Is there a better alternative while keeping it under $500?

Thanks

Hpx would be fine. How bad are your rotors? I'd probably leave the stock rotors instead of going to rda rotors. Just get them machined.

The previous owner didn't change them in their ownership of 3 years so the pads are a bit low and I think the rotors probably aren't that good with that being said there is no bad gouging on them at all. Would it make sense to machine the rears and get slotted or something for the front for a bit more stopping power?

Slotted rotors aren't going to give you more stopping power per say. They are designed to keep cool and disperse heat.

You don't have a lot of power and you are not intending on tracking it. Get slotted rotors if you wish. And if you want to save money just get the fronts. Nothing wrong with that.

Slotted rotors aren't going to give you more stopping power per say. They are designed to keep cool and disperse heat.

You don't have a lot of power and you are not intending on tracking it. Get slotted rotors if you wish. And if you want to save money just get the fronts. Nothing wrong with that.

I'm not overly fussed about money but I am very new to cars this big so I'm not sure what I should get. A good mate of mine (also on here somewhere) is running similar power and went for OEM pads and RDA standard rotors IIRC.

Thanks for your help!

Have a look at the specs of the TRW pads compared to the QFM ones.

Also have a look at what the TRW pads come with standard.

From my experience they are the best "street pad" I have ever used.

And they are fairly cheap if you Google around.

As for the A1RM pads squealing, I believe its due to light braking when on street duties, when mine started squealing I would "bed them in again" and they would be fine for while.

And for the street the TRW have much better initial bite.

A1RM are rated to 750 IIRC whilst the TRW are rated to 650.

And always install new rotors if you are changing pad compounds.

Have a look at the specs of the TRW pads compared to the QFM ones.

Also have a look at what the TRW pads come with standard.

From my experience they are the best "street pad" I have ever used.

And they are fairly cheap if you Google around.

As for the A1RM pads squealing, I believe its due to light braking when on street duties, when mine started squealing I would "bed them in again" and they would be fine for while.

And for the street the TRW have much better initial bite.

A1RM are rated to 750 IIRC whilst the TRW are rated to 650.

And always install new rotors if you are changing pad compounds.

Thanks MLR, is there an Aus distributor you know of around? Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...