Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm currently looking into doing an Electrical Engineering course, and because I finished school 6 years ago, I forget the whole tertiary system.

Basically, what 'would' the course be labelled as? (Like how they have post/undergraduate and all that)

I'm a fully qualified A-grade electrician, would this help in decreasing the length of the course?

Any help is appreciated :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172336-hopefully-someone-can-help/
Share on other sites

you have to apply for it through Vtac still, just like any other yr12 student does i belive!

and due to the fact that you are a fully qualified electricain would definatly give you credits and exemptions

most of the uni's ... rmit, swinbourne etc have electrical engineering cources , both degree (4 years), advanced diplomas (2 years) and diploma certificates (1 year) just depends how far you wanna delve into it

because you are only 6 years out they still take your entre 'TER' score into account, but you are assesed as a "mature age student"

so best thing would be to contact Vtac or even one fo the universities like RMIT and get some more info!

-Ruffels

I'm currently looking into doing an Electrical Engineering course, and because I finished school 6 years ago, I forget the whole tertiary system.

Basically, what 'would' the course be labelled as? (Like how they have post/undergraduate and all that)

I'm a fully qualified A-grade electrician, would this help in decreasing the length of the course?

Any help is appreciated :P

Become a Electrical Inspector...If i had my way again i know i would. :thumbsup:

If you've completed Year 12 or equivalent, you would be looking for an Undergraduate Bachelor of Engineering (Electrical) at one of the Universities. this is usually a 4 year course full time.

however anoter option would be to work towards such a degree by completing a number of smaller post graduate type courses and utilising RPL (Recognition of Prior Learning) from your existing career in the field.

This would start with a Certificate II or IV, then move onto a Diploma and finally to full degree and then Mastersa. Most of it can be done part time but this obviously takes a lot longer.

Best advice - contact the Universities and tell them wa=hat you want to do - they will surely accomodate you - especially if you want to be full fee paying

Try and get into Bachelor of Engineering (Electrical & Computer systems) at Monash Uni Clayton.

Course involves a shit load of maths and a lot of theory.

have a read through this to see if this is what you mean by Electrical Engineering;

http://eng.monash.edu.au/courses/undergraduate/ecse.html

In my electrical uni in first year, we learnt

superposition, capacitor charging, logic circuits, circuit analysis for voltage/current, nodal mesh

Basically a drawing of a circuit, and ways to calculate voltage/current at certain points using formula's, theories and rules.

Although this is just a basic intro to electr and becomes much more detailed in the following years.

Best would be to contact the Electrical Engineering department and see their response.

Enquiries

Tel: + 61 3 9905 3404

Fax: +61 3 9905 3409

Email: [email protected]

O work for an Engineering Consultancy with around 70 employees. We work on a range of projects and what continues to upset me is the tradesman workign for us earn far more then the engineers. Especially in the electrical side of the business. If you can do switchboards and automation/controls then you are laughing all the way to the bank.

But if you want to do engineerign because you think you will like it...then go for it!

Brisby, at the moment I'm working in the domestic field installing gate motors etc, so the pay isn't that good :D I am looking into getting back into construction though.

Cheers for the help guys, Pat, I'll email them now and see if they can give me any further information regarding it.

I'm a Elec Engineer and have worked on shit loads of big projects also.

Biggest project comming up is the new Vic Government mandate to roll out smart electricty meters...there is going to be a shortage of qualified electrictions as they aim to roll out new meters to 100% of victoria in 4 years at around 1Billion dollars. I'm runnning the comms program for Singapore Power one for the main electricty companies, soon to be the biggest in July if any1 reads BRW and know a company called Babcock and Brown! So find a company in this game as they will all be flat out starting next year.

Apart from that if your keen I would go to RMIT or Swinburne. Only cos I have been most impressed with people from there over the past few years although in reality the big ones are pretty much the same.

I did mine at Swinburne and got a D for Quantum Mechanics...now thats top shit! haha

khunjeng is correct - RMIT and swinburn - even though they are not classified as in the same league as monash and melbourne uni by many people - they provide excellent practical work when it comes to engineering and computer systems etc. Monash eng is pretty good too - my bro did science eng (specialising in bio med and electrical engineering) - i know that monash and rmit give work experience for students (or they require the student to do work experience) - not sure about swinburn though.

If you havent done an undergrad before, they might just ask you to go into the undergrad course. But that im not sure about. Many accountants started with tafe and then went on to part time undergrad course - so im assuming that this is the same for engineering.

Honestly, if I could turn back time - I would have gone into engineering and then accounting straight away instead of doing computer science and then masters in accounting.

Thanks man! I knew there'd be one on here somewhere :thumbsup:

I'll hunt around on the net for more info this week, and hopefully make some calls next week.

Did you do a degree? masters?

Degree (under grad)

Personally...f**k masters unless ur boring and cant get a job thats the only reason you would do it this young and without expereinece. You will find now you have some work experience that the degree will be much easier cos u have the drive to do it. As with most we did it straight outta high school and didnt really know wtf was going on. Those mature age guys, although I gave them shit, had drive and got good results.

Like with most things...having a solid plan and the drive will ensure u make things happen. The bit of paper does help, your really learning how to think and its fairly obvious when you speak with people who dont have suitable technical qualifications..

Finally accounting is a very important thing to understand. When i did mine I did some additional MBA subjects for management and accounting which has been good stuff for me.

My words of wisdom for you : Its not about having a good job, its about doing a good job that makes you happy.

My words of wisdom for you : Its not about having a good job, its about doing a good job that makes you happy.

I sometimes wonder why im still in engineering... :)

2yrs in cant afford to drop it now, hopefully it will become better in 3rd/4th year lol

In regards to Monash IBL for engineering there are 2 types;

Compulsary 3month biz exp during end of year 3

or

1yr work experience which can be picked up at beginning of year 4

trust me man...if ur not enjoying it now...whats the point of sticking around for the rest of it....i did 4 years of IT, hated every single moment of it - should have dropped it in second year...but like you I thought "cant afford to drop it now" - and i have a huge hecs debt

I sometimes wonder why im still in engineering... :P

2yrs in cant afford to drop it now, hopefully it will become better in 3rd/4th year lol

In regards to Monash IBL for engineering there are 2 types;

Compulsary 3month biz exp during end of year 3

or

1yr work experience which can be picked up at beginning of year 4

Swinburne started the 1 year IBL. Others copied cos they realised 3-6 months is a waste fo time. When u come back from that its amazing the difference it will make. 3 months is just a joke...u might as well just go on holidays as it takes 3-4 months just to get started.

I went to Swinburne for the IBL. And glad aI did, best decission.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...