Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ja! and I'm surprised they sell it seperately I thought it was part of the main engine harness.....might grab one myself :)

thanks heaps mate. Spent about half an hour today at Nissan and couldnt find the part in FAST. Will ring them tomorrow and get one ordered in :D

how do i get a hold of a copy of FAST???? seems a few "non employees" have obtained copies and it would come in handy at work and home :down:

yeah sometimes there is more than 1 page in a section and this is one of them - there are about 30 wierd bits in the wiring section right down to clips, cable ties etc etc

not sure of a current place you can get FAST, I saw it years ago when it was live on bit torrent. its a really big set of files 2.2gb. Someone from this thread might be able to pm you where to get it

hey i need some part numbers for my car 1993 R32 GTS4

its a bit of a list i know there jst little things but i would like to get them out of the way

also i dont actually know what parts i have to get so i'll just right down what the mechanic said i need done :)

Left Hand Rack Boot

Drivers Front Drive Shaft Diff Seal Leak

P/Steering belt

HICAS leaking oil (Drivers Side)

Gearbox Hydraulic hose leaking

Front Caster Radius Buch cracked

4WD front drive shaft seal leak

Cheers sorry for the list

well....I'm too lazy to look all of them up.

But you can get aftermarket:

steering rack boot

power steer belt

radius rod bush

cheaper and in the case of radius rod better than standard.

diff seal (drivers side drive shaft) I think you need to go nissan. front drive shaft seal I've never heard of leaking? but it would be nissan as well.

hicas and attessa hose are a bit trickier, depends what the leak is. nip up the attessa hose a bit it might stop, if not check the little o ring or the flare on the hose. hicas no idea just ditch it and get a lock bar.

but your mechanic can probably get better prices than you can anyway

well....I'm too lazy to look all of them up.

But you can get aftermarket:

steering rack boot

power steer belt

radius rod bush

cheaper and in the case of radius rod better than standard.

diff seal (drivers side drive shaft) I think you need to go nissan. front drive shaft seal I've never heard of leaking? but it would be nissan as well.

hicas and attessa hose are a bit trickier, depends what the leak is. nip up the attessa hose a bit it might stop, if not check the little o ring or the flare on the hose. hicas no idea just ditch it and get a lock bar.

but your mechanic can probably get better prices than you can anyway

cheers man appreciate it..oh and what do u mean by nip up the attessa hose?? lol

Edited by vinnie34gtt
hm I can't work it out. looks like 83306-04u10 and 83307-04u01 are the windows, and I can see the clips parts too, but not the actual seals. Possibly its just sikaflex.

there are seals on the front (72750-04u10) and rear screens (79780-04u15)

Hmmm. I spoke to Nissan and they said that they couldn't order just the seals, and I would have to buy the window kit (about $480 a pop). Urgh. Anybody have any ideas? :)

Graham, don't go to nissan for them, I got them aftermarket from a gas strut guy in the phone book. They match one of the local maximas (not sure which series, but the guy I called had them on hand)

lucien, have you caught up with louie? pretty sure rear quarter seals don't exist and you would just use windsreen goop to hold them it.

Vince...at the rear of your gearbox there will the a line going in (17mm from memory). have a good look thats probably where the leak is coming from. Tighten it carefully (don't put too much force in or you can damage the fitting since it is hollow). If it s already tight take it right off, check the flare on the end of the pipe is in good condition (no nicks or bends) and put it back in again making sure it is straight. If you do undo it you will loose some (or all depending how slow you are) of the attessa fluid. If so, refill the resoviour in the boot with auto trans fluid and bleed the attessa system (search for instructions)> Or just leave it for your mechanic to fix lol

Part no's for Nissan stagea 260RS gas filled telescopic bonnet supports anyone? Them thangs wot stops lid falling on head when sticky-beaking? vin WGNC34-1008837

Cheers GW :D

I got a pair of these for my Laurel, they cost me $167 each. I tried to get them regassed but the seals were rooted, if your seals are ok maybe you could try this option.

Graham, don't go to nissan for them, I got them aftermarket from a gas strut guy in the phone book. They match one of the local maximas (not sure which series, but the guy I called had them on hand)

Hi Duncan, thanks for the info, my car is S1 & gas struts are about rooted. No apparent leaks but then gas is tricky stuff to spot :P This guy of yours, could you post or pm me his name/fone # as there are a few of them in the book. Quite a few actually. :( Or a manufacturer & part # from your ship?

Cheers GW :P

PS: Thanks Russell, because I be way out back I will be going for replacement first then maybe get old ones regassed if serviceable. Thanks again. GW

Edited by 260tech
Hi Duncan, thanks for the info, my car is S1 & gas struts are about rooted. No apparent leaks but then gas is tricky stuff to spot :P This guy of yours, could you post or pm me his name/fone # as there are a few of them in the book. Quite a few actually. :( Or a munufacturer & part # from your ship?

Cheers GW :P

just some quick info. Any guy that does struts can help you. they will fit just generic no name stuff that will work perfectly.

An old mate of mine used to work for Motorgear. They had a book (cant remember which company it was from) that had most models listed. He said u can use any of the struts out of the book to replace and strut as long as the ends were the same. You just gotta look at the open size, closed size and the strength. I replaced the struts in the tailgate of my old VL wagon with struts suited for a mitsubishi. a little more open length in them so the gate opened higher. :D

thanks heaps mate. Spent about half an hour today at Nissan and couldnt find the part in FAST. Will ring them tomorrow and get one ordered in :)

how do i get a hold of a copy of FAST???? seems a few "non employees" have obtained copies and it would come in handy at work and home >_<

yeah much easier to just order the part no, interesting to see every part of a skyline in pieces too

http://www.torrentbox.com/torrent_details?id=57362

fyi torrentbox is mostly worksafe

won't be seeding forever so get in quick :)

just some quick info. Any guy that does struts can help you. they will fit just generic no name stuff that will work perfectly.

An old mate of mine used to work for Motorgear. They had a book (cant remember which company it was from) that had most models listed. He said u can use any of the struts out of the book to replace and strut as long as the ends were the same. You just gotta look at the open size, closed size and the strength. I replaced the struts in the tailgate of my old VL wagon with struts suited for a mitsubishi. a little more open length in them so the gate opened higher. :)

Cheers Arep, so my best bet is to find a strut Johnnie & go from there? Was hoping to order a pair & do "homefit" but sounds like a good excuse to do a run to the metropolis, when the fires are out.

Thanks & cheers GW >_<

Cheers Arep, so my best bet is to find a strut Johnnie & go from there? Was hoping to order a pair & do "homefit" but sounds like a good excuse to do a run to the metropolis, when the fires are out.

Thanks & cheers GW :down:

We have several machines at my work that have sound barriers on them. they have lift up doors that are on gas struts. whenever they fail or a new machine is added we get a guy that drives out to fit them. just a 1 man band and he has always done a great job with all the struts he has fitted. The only thing i know of that he hasnt been able to fit struts to is my bonnet!

Hi im after some part numbers for:

front, rear, quarter panel and side window rubber surrounds, pretty much all the rubber that sits around the exterior of the windows.

All for 1992 r32 gtst.

Can FAST look this up???

thanks heaps..

Tone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
×
×
  • Create New...