Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Flow Question

tacker

By tacker,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

tacker Mentor

tacker

Posted
Posted

Would i be right in saying that the oil flow in an rb26dett engine follows this direction.

from the sump oil is picked up by the oil pump and pumped out through the oil / water heat exchanger. Then from there out,to the filter housing and from there out to the oil /air coolers and then returned to the filter housing and into the oil galleries to supply the slippery stuff to all those rotation parts.

The reason i ask is that i installed another oil temp guage into the filter housing and iwas wondering if i installed it into the return line from the coolers as i have about 50 degrees of temp difference between the stock guage and the after market item and for the life of me this is the only possible reason my brain could come up with?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173026-oil-flow-question/
Share on other sites
Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

don't you want the temp after it's filtered and through the inline cooler - as this is what is protecting all the up and down bits.

once it is run through the engine, it drains to the sump so it's hotter there but it's more important to have the pressurised temp reading.

mine is tapped into the return from the oil cooler (i tihnk)

tacker Mentor

tacker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yep not sure where the factory guage is installed but would be really surprised if the 2 coolers i have would provide 50 degrees of cooling. I need to check the after market guage with some heated fluid to confirm it is reading right. As the stock temp gauge is nugging 120 ( well i think it is as the mark below the 150 line ) and the after marketone isreading only 80 ish.

  • 4 weeks later...
260tech Proficient

260tech

Posted
Posted
best pickup for oil temp is sump

Bump...............within this temp range.............best way to test pesky temp senders/recievers is ice cubes in water (sustained) ~4deg C (nice low end point) & boiling water ~100deg C (ballpark high end point). At mean sea level. Ifya got all the sensors/reciever loops cooling/cooking at the same time yer onto it.

Cheers

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted

My english'ised comment ?^^?

I'm not so sure about placement either. I would assume post cooler, so you know the temp of the oil going into the motor... but whats the point if its going in at 80c and when it finally hits the cam, crank etc journals, its 150c and breaking down? (I'm sure its unlikely where there are near by water jackets at a constant 90c or what not)

*ponders*

tacker Mentor

tacker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Correct i really am not bothered about what temp the oil goes in at. The only time i will bother with that is if the oil coming out is about 120 odd. At this point i will then look and see what temp the oil is going in at.

I still do not believe that the air to oil coolers can possibly drop the temp down 40 ish degrees, or the fact that i am only just reaching 90 degrees on the the coolant temp while the oil temp is so high it just doesnt make sense to me.

Any one else have some figures to see the difference between the oil and coolant temp? Or had problems with the stock oil temp gauge

tacker Mentor

tacker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

URAS,

I cant tell you a brand as it was on the car when i got it. Still located in the original position on the side of the block, and i have removed one of the ellen key grub screws and install the electric temp sender in to this position, hence i am not sure if its measuring the cooled oil returning from the two coolers in series. Or a shitty sender in the first place and why i have such a big diff between the readings on the 2 guages.

Where o where does the original oil temp gauge have its sender located.

tacker Mentor

tacker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers guys thats what i wanted confirmed.

Now WTF how could i have 40 odd degree diff between 2 gauges that are within inches of each other unless one is one the outlet and the other is on the return side of the filter housing.

Is it possible to get 40 degree of cooling from 2 air to oil coolers mounted in series.

Or is the engine to hot and produce oil temps of 120 - 125 degrees while engine coolant gauges ( 3 of ), 2 show low 90ies and the stock gauge sits mid way on its scale.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

what brand gauge?

the reason i asked about the filter mount is the brand would let me know if the port was in the in or out side, if your gauge is a reputable electric brand it should be accurate, it maybe worthwile to swap the two senders around and compare the results. I run my oil temp and pressure off the remote mount and it is very accurate.

tacker Mentor

tacker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmm, not so sure as the coolant temp gauge reads the same as the PFC. But good point i will buy some better gauges in Oz next week while i am home and see if that makes any diff next time the car comes out.

Still i could try the old boiling water trick and see how close it is as well

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...