Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Or S13, R33 Or S14

jim32
 Share

Recommended Posts

jim32 Apprentice

jim32

Posted
Posted

Just saved up enough money to be able to purchase another car but i have a hard choice ahead me i am intrested in the above cars, and the requirments out of the cars are 250hp, easily modified and extensive body kit + exterior mod range. So i stuck between the R32 or S13 is well within my budget with a couple of goodies going staright on or R33 or S14 where there will be lack of goodies for a while, tuff choice just after some opinions and thoughts

Thanks Jim

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173578-r32-or-s13-r33-or-s14/
Share on other sites
R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

Posted
Posted

Id prob say not the s13. Can look tacky with bodykits etc, getting quite dated. s14 is a good choice if its series 2 olther wise the 33 looks the goods with the right kit and can be easily modified to the power level you want. The rb20 in the 32 will take a bit more to get to the same level.

deant1 Collaborator

deant1

Posted
Posted

Buy the cheapest 32 you can find that's got decent paint work. spend the rest on an rb25, coilovers, swaybars and whatever else your budget can afford.

imo 33's are the better car only because of the engine. 32 has a better handling and more direct steering.

As for looks it's down to personal preference. i prefer 32 and 34 looks as i think they are fairly simiular tbh. each to there own.

In saying that i had a drive of a friends S14 a while ago and that's only got 180rwkw and it felt very responsive and handled great (lighter car), until smoke came pouring out the back and apparently the turbo gasket had blown.

Quicksilvia Newbie

Quicksilvia

Posted
Posted (edited)

Since i have one i will go for s14a! DONT GET SERIES I, the turbo aint as good!

Light and cheap, i have been told that fuel consumption is much better than a 33 by a mate and it does make sense!

I cant really compare but im happy with what i got

Unigroup were shocked and said they had never see it before so i dont know if you can go directly by it but i got 203.4rwkw with 16.5psi (yavus still cant believe its a stock turbo because of how easily it was doing it but it is), ces 3" zorst, hybrid intercooler, 040 fuel pump, SAFC II, pod, bov, and other small things. So it took nothing to go up from around 110rwkw, so im very happy with my car, the zorst is the best part since i got the quiet version so long trips are no issue at all! in fact i look forward to them!

Also i dont know why my avatar has rb20e in it!! i didnt put it there so im sorting it out! my car has an sr20 blacktop (stock) just incase there was any confusion!

Edited by Quicksilvia
deant1 Collaborator

deant1

Posted
Posted

you probably thought that because 33 steering is the least direct out of all the skylines and silvias. might make the car feel lighter and easier to handle. they revised the steering and made it feel more like the r32 when they developed the 34's. direct steering is better for racing and more assisted softer steering is better for a daily driver.

What do you want the car for? just a daily or a leisure toy...

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted
Since i have one i will go for s14a! DONT GET SERIES I, the turbo aint as good!

Light and cheap, i have been told that fuel consumption is much better than a 33 by a mate and it does make sense!

I cant really compare but im happy with what i got

Unigroup were shocked and said they had never see it before so i dont know if you can go directly by it but i got 203.4rwkw with 16.5psi (yavus still cant believe its a stock turbo because of how easily it was doing it but it is), ces 3" zorst, hybrid intercooler, 040 fuel pump, SAFC II, pod, bov, and other small things. So it took nothing to go up from around 110rwkw, so im very happy with my car, the zorst is the best part since i got the quiet version so long trips are no issue at all! in fact i look forward to them!

Also i dont know why my avatar has rb20e in it!! i didnt put it there so im sorting it out! my car has an sr20 blacktop (stock) just incase there was any confusion!

there is no difference between series 1 or 2 for the S14 in the engine.

if you are making 203rwkw in an S14, you do not have a stock turbo.

even S15's struggle to make 200rwkw with pfc and supporting mods and something like 17psi of boost.

my series 1 made 175rwkw with 15psi boost and safc, fmic, pump, exhaust, pod etc..

same dyno as you.

same tuner as you.

Absent Community Regular

Absent

Posted
Posted

I hate these threads, everyone recomends the car that they own and then bag the others saying rb25>rb20, r33s are boats, rb>sr, etc. It turns into an arguement of who has the best car

get the car you want and like the most

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • Jarsky
      gauge needle removal

      By Jarsky · Posted

      I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Jarsky
      R33 GTST Axles

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Jarsky
      R34 Speedo not working after manual swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Rezz
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By Rezz · Posted

      Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...