Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heres a little bit on an American car company called Tesla. They will be making electric cars starting with a Roadster this year and including a sedan and an economy model by 2011. The Roadster is around $90k american, The sedan is expected to be $30k, and the economy car in the $10k range. Currently the Roadster gets 250 miles per charge, sedan is expected at 400-500miles. They are estimating about 500 full charges per battery, which means the roadster should hit 125k miles before it needs new AA's. Theres only 1 schedualed maintainence period every 150k miles. These cars have 0 emissions, and the engine only has 1 moving part. The Roadster does 0-60mph in 4.1sec, it's fast as f**k. It runs with a 2-speed manu-matic tranny. 13,500rpm redline with max torque from 0-7000rpm. 130mph top speed. It's based on the Lotus Elise chasis, but its a little longer because it needs to carry a battery. Still technically a mid-engine rear drive car. Weighs in at about 1300kg. Anyways heres some pics.

tesla_1.jpg1_2.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174120-ready-to-go-electric/
Share on other sites

Here's a couple video's for anyone who is actually interested in seeing them.

not to shabby if u have $90k US to spend on an electric go kart....

An electric go-kart will make your skyline look stupid, and only costs 1cent per mile to run.

yeah not to bad, although i wonder how much the AA's (batteries) cost???

The batteries are the expensive part right now. It's also the main reason why the $30k sedan wont be out till 2009. I'm guessing that by the time you see some of these cars on the road, the batteries will be affordable enough to replace. The Roadster price is expected to come down by then as well. It will be someplace in the $50k price range.

Edited by Rabid
If it produces 0 emissons, I am interested to know where the power comes from in the first place to charge it up.
yeah. replace oil and fuel consumption with burning even more fossil fuels which is a leading cause of global warming.

top work.

the question is.. which is worse?

If Australians had any intelligence the power would come from nuclear power plants... :yes:

Edited by Macross
yeah. replace oil and fuel consumption with burning even more fossil fuels which is a leading cause of global warming.

top work.

the question is.. which is worse?

If every car was electric, and we needed X more powerplants that burn say, coal, to power them. We would still be letting out 50% less CO2 emissions than we do right now. So it's cleaner than what we have currently. And as powerplants become more efficient at making electricity, those numbers will go down even more.

I'd much rather have a decent late model low-kay Lotus Elise (which the Tesla is based on) for somewhere between a 1/4 and a 1/3 the price.

The point I'm trying to make is that someday (soon), there just isn't going to be any gasoline. It's never a bad time to think about what type of alternative fuel your interested in. Electric cars are just one of the many options, but since most of you here are interested in performance, not just gas mileage, electric is probably what your going to want to keep your eyes on. Also like I said before, the Roadster is going to drop down to about $50k which is only a fraction more than the Elise's that are running the Toyota motors in them.

Theres also another company (who's name I can't remember at the moment) who is going to produce an electric 7 seater crossover sport utility (also with help from lotus). It's expected to get 350 miles per charge. Also it is AWD and runs a high 4sec 0-60. The best part about this car though, is they claim it will only take 10min to get a full charge. That's about how long it takes to fill up on gas and get a drink right now. Not bad at all. The other thing is, batteries are getting about 8% more powerful every year. So if this trend keeps up (and it is expected to) a car that gets 400 miles per charge now, in 6 years will get 600 miles per charge. In 12 years it will get 900, in 18 it will be close to 1400. Also the batteries are recyclable.

$90K American would put the car at around AUD$300K or so, once you factor the usual raping we get when cars are imported (they're estimating under USD$70K for the GT-R in the USA, and about AUD$180K Down Under).

The Australian government isn't particularly interested in cutting us some slack when it comes to "green" cars (we don't get concessions on hybrids like the Prius), and on such a niche vehicle there won't be much by way of economies of scale.

If one were affordable, I'd buy one. Amazing off-idle torque and high speed, and I want an Elise. The only thing I'd miss is the sound of an engine...but since the Elise is a 4 banger and all 4 bangers sound like shit, I'd not missing that much.

Edited by scathing

Currently the Tesla takes about 4 hours for a full charge. But like I said theres another company out there that claims it has a car that will be good for 350 miles on a 10min charge. That car is called the Zap-X and its a 644hp AWD, 4.8sec 0-60, 155mph top speed, 7 passenger SUV. The Technology will only get better as time goes on and since mass production of electric cars of any sort is still a few years off its very likely that charge times will improve significantly.

Here is the ZAP-X lotus_apx_concept-01.jpg

i cant imagine drifting in one of those things and instead of hearing the engine and exhaust roar, you'll be hearing whirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr like a little r/c car....

that alone is going to suck!

i hope gasoline doesn't run out in my lifetime :)

and 1 more thing,

is it even possible to mod electrical engines?

Edited by MoogLe

While it all sounds very impressive I thnk the general public is going to fail to realise that the power to charge it up is still a result of burning fossil fuels. So you plug it into a wall socket to refill it with juice, where do people think that power comes from?

I agree with what someone else said, Nuclear power is the way to go in Australia. They are SO much more efficent than coal burning power plants. Crap like wind and solar power is all well and good in THEORY but the fact is that it doesn't produce NEARLY as much power as required, and look at the fossil fuels burnt by the factories making all the panels and what not.

Call me an Ecoterroist but I plan to hold onto a petrol car as long as possible. Sure electric cars might be awesome for a nice quiet luxury car but your not going to impress anyone by revving your little electric motor at the lights now are you :D

While it all sounds very impressive I thnk the general public is going to fail to realise that the power to charge it up is still a result of burning fossil fuels. So you plug it into a wall socket to refill it with juice, where do people think that power comes from?

Already answered that question.

is it even possible to mod electrical engines?

easily. double the voltage to the motor and you get a theoretical doubling of power (although this never happens due to increasing thermal losses). some wiring changes to the effect of running more batteries in series then parallel, you could achieve a *close* to doubling in power, but also halving in mileage per charge. The only addon you would need is extra cooling for the motor for all the extra heat. of course you could just add more batteries and keep your mileage the same..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...