Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Searching around for brake pads and stumbled across 2 new lineups from Bendix

Bendix SRT; http://www.bendix.com.au/index.php?module=...2281613041-6043

Bendix Street, Road and Track brake pads are designed to suit sports & performance car enthusiasts for high speed driving applications. They have been developed by one of the world’s leading high performance friction material manufacturers incorporating the latest technology and extensively tested under extreme conditions.

Street, Road and Track adjusts to your driving style, so you don’t have to adjust to the style of your brakes.

Bendix Race; http://www.bendix.com.au/index.php?module=...2281613041-6043

Bendix Race has been specifically designed for race applications.

To formal CAMS race drivers and teams, Bendix Race is a premium racing brake pad, that is designed to out brake the other guy under extreme braking. You get more initial bite, optimum control at the pedal and remarkable thermal stability, throughout the race.

Anyone have any experience/knowledge about them?

Do the SRT's still squeel and/or eat brake rotors?

Anyone have a price?

Cheers

Patrick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174354-new-bendix-pads-on-the-market/
Share on other sites

It looks like the SRT's will only be sold through 'selected' outlets, read 'few' outlets. Pretty stupid if that is so, perhaps they are trying to be exclusive, and expensive.

I've heard they are up near Ferodo 2500 prices, bugger them if thats the case.

Edited by 260DET

I have spoken to a few brake shops about the SRT pads when shopping for a new set a few weeks back.

The consensus i got was they they are designed to be comparable with Ferodo DS2500s, and are not even really comparable with ultimates. One shop said they had feedback from a guy who used the SRTs and DS2500s and he had good things to say about the SRTs.

The SRTs are ~$250, DS2500s ~$300 for DB1170

Havent heard anything about the 'Race' pads..

I have these in my R34GT-T. S,R & T in the front and Ultimates in the back. Got the SR&T on an introductory special for $195.00 in Melb, Bursons quoted $295.00. Appear to be really good so far, nice & bitey. Have a track day in a couple of weeks so I'll know more then.

I have these in my R34GT-T. S,R & T in the front and Ultimates in the back. Got the SR&T on an introductory special for $195.00 in Melb, Bursons quoted $295.00. Appear to be really good so far, nice & bitey. Have a track day in a couple of weeks so I'll know more then.

Do they squeal like banshees?

Do they eat rotors like ultimates?

Any Brake Dust?

In your opinion are they better than ebc greens, rb74, qfm etc?

Cheers :P

Do they squeal like banshees?

Do they eat rotors like ultimates?

Any Brake Dust?

In your opinion are they better than ebc greens, rb74, qfm etc?

Cheers :D

No noise as yet, only done a couple of hundred k's so don't no what they will be like on rotors and not to dusty. Have never used anything other than Bendix, so I can't compare.

  • 3 weeks later...
I have spoken to a few brake shops about the SRT pads when shopping for a new set a few weeks back.

The consensus i got was they they are designed to be comparable with Ferodo DS2500s, and are not even really comparable with ultimates. One shop said they had feedback from a guy who used the SRTs and DS2500s and he had good things to say about the SRTs.

The SRTs are ~$250, DS2500s ~$300 for DB1170

Havent heard anything about the 'Race' pads..

Do you mean $300 for DS2500's? They don't cost anywhere near that. More like $250 +/- $10 I think.

Do you mean $300 for DS2500's? They don't cost anywhere near that. More like $250 +/- $10 I think.

They used to be approx $240. They have gone up in price, and now sell for approx $300 from most places... i did the ring around when shopping for new pads recently to discover this unpleasant surprise :)

What rotors are you using Wogboy?

I'm just using factory rotors and had the slots machined in then, seem to work well. Will find out on friday when a few mates and I head out to Symmons Plains (our local track) for the day!

post-2552-1184746622_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...