Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've done a search but can't find my answer...

- Is anyone running 17x9 all round? specifically on an R34 GTT

- Will 9" fit the front? seems most people go for 8"

- Can I go for the same width AND offset for front and rear? I was thinking 17x9 with offset in the range of +30 to +35.

specifically for a 34 GTT and only 17"

cheers

The offsets seem a bit too low.

if it's for a GTT

17x9 +20 is definitely not too low offset, IMO i wouldn't touch anything with a higher offset than that. Hell, i'm going to be running 17x9 +0 and 18x10 +12 on an S13 soon, will look tough as!

Hi guys just need some help while on this topic.

Ill looking at buying 18inch wheels with 18x8.5+43 Rears 235x40 & 18x8+41 Fronts 225x40.

Will these offset fit my R34 gtt?

Would it clear the brakes?

Thanks guys

Please don't, those offsets will look like complete AIDS on a R34

Edited by ~Hypnotik~

jesus this thread is a brothel!

you can run way better offsets than have been mentioned here...

i run 18.9.5 +30 (18x8.5+30 front) on an r33 gtst with no flare and near flat camber (just a roll) and its an easy fit... the 34 guards are bigger again, so 9.5 +20 will get you about the same fitment as me, and i still could go out a bit more... say another 10mm before i need to flare

DSC00011.jpg

Most people are way too conservative with offset. 33's can definitely fit +20 9.5" rims at the rear and +20 8.5-9 at the front with guard work and it will look a huge deal better than +35 and above offsets. Just don't run bulgy oversized tyres. 265-275 for 10", 255-265 for 9.5", 235-245 for 9", 235-225 for 8.5", 225-215 for 8". Any lower width and the rims are no good for a turbo skyline.

  • 2 months later...

R33 GTST easy but wide fit would be:

Front = 18 x 8.5 +30 235/40/18

Rear = 18 x 9 +30 245/40/18

A little roll at rear - with 1degree neg camber both front and rear.

Keep in mind that you don't want big changes in track widths front to rear.

R34 are a bit bigger so:

Front = 18 x 8.5 +24

Rear = 18 x 9 +24

Not that I can think of rims that are these exact sizes. I currently have 18 x 8 +30 and 18 x 8.5 +33 and they sit about 1cm too far in the guards on R33. Come tyre replacement time I will get 245/40/18 for the rear - up from 235/40/18.

Edited by simpletool

Hi,

I have not been sharing much since i came on the forum. I am from malaysia and here what i have for my setup.

18x9.5 +12 all around

F: 225/45/18 -1 camber

R:245/40/18 -2 camber

[ wheel was off a R34 GTR, got it cuz it was dirt cheap and thought the offset should be manageable]

I have not flared my guards so i been scrapping on hard bumps on all 4 wheels for a few weeks now. I am looking to get camber arm to help go negative even more. This is the part i need some guidance on. Now i have jacked up the suspension so the scrapping is to the minimum. There is a few people in here i have PM that helped me; it still work in progress.

post-51211-1248662237_thumb.jpg

Edited by k20aek

im running 18x8.0 on the front, unsure of offset i'd have to check with 235 rubber no guard work

and 18x9.0 +24 with 265 tyres no guard work.

back wheels sit flush, maybe stick out a mm or 2. looks good

thats on r34gtt

Edited by stenve
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had another look at the car and I noticed the fuel pump isn't priming on ignition. I'd taken out the pump from the boot to siphon out the old fuel, so maybe I've knocked something loose or broken a wire putting things back together. Will go back with a multimeter and try to work out what's stuffed. Kinda hoping it's the pump itself thats gone so I can upgrade it
    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is juan@bardabe.com   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
×
×
  • Create New...