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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
If you're still thinking of getting the Autech Stagea, then the PFC for an R33 GT-R will work regardless of if you buy the series 1 or series 2 Stagea. It's a direct fit and no mods need to be made.

If you're getting a series 2 RS-Four S, then I believe that once you've done the mod outlined by EGA41T, wolverine and beastien, then you won't have to worry about the ATTESA - the ATTESA control is separate.

The attessa can be run by any ecu easy, all it needs is the TPS wire split into 2 and one goto the ecu and the other to the wire than runs to the rear attessa ecu to give it the tps signal. 4wd will work perfectly :thumbsup: this works on haltech, autronics, wolf, etc. I have done it and it works perfectly.

ill find the colour of the wire that u need to connect the tps signal too and post it on the forums for future reference :D

I'm putting a series 2 rb25det neo 4wd stagea motor into my R32 gts4.

So to confirm what you guys are saying, I can run an R34gtt Power FC, with the TPS mod as described above to make attessa work (as gts4 is 4wd) and the mod outlined by EGA41T?

Right?

Bought a R34 GTT Power FC with Boost Control kit

will take a while to get it, and will need to save for the tune.

will report how it goes in an Automatic 1997 S1 Stagea RS4-v awd (auto with MV Autos customized shift kit)

Hey gts4wa, if you use a R34 GTT PFC it already has a separate output for the attessa (well actually on the R34 GTT it's for the traction control, but it's exactly the same output).

Hey Brendan - do you mean there is another pin out on the ecu that we can just connect straight to pin #51?

I was going to try your trick (510k ohm resister between 51 and earth)

cancel that I've worked it out. pin 51 has 5v and we need it to have 3.7v to turn off the check engine light. When I do the change you said we get 3.7v at pin 51 and it all works fine. ;)

Yep thats it Duncan, either the resistor or the zener diode fix. I have the resistor in at the moment, but am going to change it to the zener diode some time soon, as it seems to be the most correct method of achieving the 3.7V needed.

The other pinout I mentioned is pin #37, which is the same on a Stagea S1, S2 and the R34 GTT, which gives the throttle opening signal for the Attessa on the Stagea, and traction control on the R34 GTT.

  • 2 weeks later...

Guys,

My mechanic has tried this the EGA41T's method on pin #51 and said that nothing has happened... he also said that pin has no wire to the cars loom, is this normal?

I think he is going to try the same method with pin #37 and maybe the 510k ohm resistor to pin 51 to earth.

I would really appreciate any comment.

Thanks

Dave

silva this mod is to get around the powerfc throwing up and engine checklight due the traction control on R34 GT-t skylines.

whether you do this mod or not everything else works fine when you plug the powerfc in on the S2 stagea. it starts runs etc no problems.

on a series 1 the loom may not have a wire there but the powerfc will still need 3.7v at pin51.

That is what is confusing me... It is a Series 2 Neo factory manual..

Is there meant to be a wire in the #51 pin?

Everything does work perfectly and it is on the dyno right now but as you said the engine check light is on..

He also mentioned that he could not get a 400ohm resistor, only 390 or about 410 from memory could this be the problem?

Does it need exactly 3.7v or will less do?

Cheers

Stagea RB25DET (2.5) 1996 - 2002 ECCS pinout shows that pin 51 is indeed empty

I have the R34 ECCS pinout that shows pin51 to be throttle motor sensor signal

Throttle sensor signal is # 23 on both pinouts

Throttle opening signsal is # 37 on both

Throttle sensor power is # 48 on both

I cant find a throttle motor sensor signal on the Stagea pinout

Duncan, the car is 4x4 and Tangles, I have the same information as you.

The tuner said that he put an LED test light on Pin #51 and nothing happened and he also tried the k ohm resistor to earth and that didnt work either..

The car runs perfectly apart from the engine light.. he also mentioed that he thought the diagram in post 1 had the zender diode facing the wrong way (reducing voltage to ignition not the ecu) but I dont think he tried to swap it around..

Cheers

Dave

Duncan, the car is 4x4 and Tangles, I have the same information as you.

The tuner said that he put an LED test light on Pin #51 and nothing happened and he also tried the k ohm resistor to earth and that didnt work either..

The car runs perfectly apart from the engine light.. he also mentioed that he thought the diagram in post 1 had the zender diode facing the wrong way (reducing voltage to ignition not the ecu) but I dont think he tried to swap it around..

Cheers

Dave

so it runs perfectly? 4wd is all hooked up and running ok (attessa?)

can you keep us updated please? cheers.

anyone know how else to trick the engine check light if your Pin #51 is empty??

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