Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I have recently purchased an R34 25GTT, and was wondering what petrol to use.

I have gathered that 95 Octane is suitable, yet i pumped V-Power from Shell, which was a little bit more expensive. Just wanted to find out what others out there with similar imported cars prefer to use, and if 95 is good enough (i.e. that it wont damage the car like normal unleaded would)

CHeers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176015-r34-petrol-choices/
Share on other sites

32 , 33 or 34 i would highly highly highly recommend premium.

BP ultimate, shell V power, or mobil's premium one (cant think of the name), are the only 3 i consider. i personally wouldnt use 95, i stick with BP which is 98. use it 100% of the time and works for me.

this has been covered a bit before so try a search and im sure you will read more posts about it.

dude, there's no ' R34 petrol choices ' LOL. Basically most of the skylines, silvias, supras are similiar. Just stick to 98 Octane and you'll be fine. Doesn't really matter Shell V-Power, BP Ultimate, Mobil Synergy 8000, Caltex Vortex 98, these 4 are the most popular choices. Different people may argue Shell is better than Caltex blah blah blah, but they are basically the same. :D

Like other people have said, stick with 98 octane (or better). Also you will get best results if you stay with the same brand of fuel too.

I'd stay away from anything less than 98 octane unless you have to use it (ie. in the country). Your fuel economy will likely be better with 98 octane anyway so the overall cost will probably not be that different. Its also better for your engine so it will save you money in the long run :D

Just like everyone said, 98oct would be ideal but if you are a real tightass, 92/95oct would be fine if you dont thrash your car. Thrashing your R34 on 92/95, your motor will ping its head off and eventually couple of cylinders (if you are lucky enough :( ) will come flying out from your block.

I know a few guys that were using 92/95oct in their rexies, skylines and 200s due to the high fuel prices couple of months ago, most of these boys were driving in excess of 100km per day so saving every cent mattered.

Just like everyone said, 98oct would be ideal but if you are a real tightass, 92/95oct would be fine if you dont thrash your car. Thrashing your R34 on 92/95, your motor will ping its head off and eventually couple of cylinders (if you are lucky enough :D ) will come flying out from your block.

I know a few guys that were using 92/95oct in their rexies, skylines and 200s due to the high fuel prices couple of months ago, most of these boys were driving in excess of 100km per day so saving every cent mattered.

I've heard this argument many times, but given that using 91octane fuel (which most regular unleaded is) is risking blowing your engine, ask yourself if it really is cheaper for the sake of $5 a week in savings...

In my opinion spending a little extra on fuel (its not that much really) is very cheap insurance and protection for your engine :(

I've heard this argument many times, but given that using 91octane fuel (which most regular unleaded is) is risking blowing your engine, ask yourself if it really is cheaper for the sake of $5 a week in savings...

In my opinion spending a little extra on fuel (its not that much really) is very cheap insurance and protection for your engine :)

yeh agreed.. when it comes down to it, the savings are quite minimal, and you relly got to look at the longer term.. i mean u could sacrifice a cup of coffee, or pack of smokes rather than risking ur baby :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...