Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No its not for me lol.... my old lady is going to buy one tomorrow....

Now im going to do the negotiation. Has anybody purchased one lately or know of someone who has purchased one lately?

I need an idea of what price i can aim for.

They have quoted 31,500k reccomended retail for the car she want.. but im sure i can screw them down a bit and hopefully get them to throw in some car mats etc...

Anyone know the tricks of the trade or can offer any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Mark.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176437-buying-new-car-tomorrow/
Share on other sites

Go to 3 or so dealers if you can.

First one try and wangle as much as you can, and then tell them you'll get back to them later in the day.

Then go to another with "XXX yard will gimme this, that and the other. Can you beat it"

Generally by the 3rd dealer you've got a few bits and pieces ontop of what the 1st/2nd dude coughed up.

Then you go back to the first one, and then screw them down hard with "XXXX has gone a couple better, can you beat it cause i wanna buy today" etc etc.

Sounds like a good plan, i was going to go to another dealer as you said before going back to the one where mum has already been... Mazda dealers are to far between, so i think ill just stick with going between 2.

go to a few dealers.

we recently bought a mazda 2 genki, GWS Mazda in mulgrave had the best deal - but we couldnt get any free stuff ($21,990 drive away). If I had gone to penfold mazda we would have paid an extra 4 grand ($25,990) but could have bargained to get stuff like window tinting, floor mats etc....

even if they dont lower the price, ask them to put some of the extra accessories :rant:

Best advice as Ash and Hamster says, go to 3 dealers and let them know you are shopping around.

Infact rather than me echoing the above posts, they seem to sum it up well. Will have this one as a post count increase :rant:

Remember car salesmen are scum (even if they aren't, don't seem like it, just assume they are it can be hard with thier charm)...

Don't opt for extra crap like 'paint protection' its just a super expensive wax, no matter how much pressure, or how bad they make you feel about not buying xxx extra because of yyy, don't fall for it, stick to your guns.

As for price, as above, just shop around, don't be afraid to be a bit of a hard arse, don't let them guilt you into anything... if they want to make the sale, make them work for it.

Forget window tinting as well, get it done afterwards as they'll get some cheap shit stuff, and claim its worth $570.

Genuine options like mats, cruise, electrics, factory spoiler kit, etc are the options you want to bargain for.

Forget window tinting as well, get it done afterwards as they'll get some cheap shit stuff, and claim its worth $570.

Genuine options like mats, cruise, electrics, factory spoiler kit, etc are the options you want to bargain for.

Yeah window tinting will get done afterwards. Mats ill try and get for free.. the Maxx Sport model is basically side skirt, rear spoiler and 16" alloys upgrade for $1000. But will try to further bargain.

Im sure once the salesman see's the supple young swedish boy infront of him he'll work out some arrangement.....

lol, im sure he can visit you in the IKEA shop..

Remember car salesmen are scum (even if they aren't, don't seem like it, just assume they are it can be hard with thier charm)...

Don't opt for extra crap like 'paint protection' its just a super expensive wax, no matter how much pressure, or how bad they make you feel about not buying xxx extra because of yyy, don't fall for it, stick to your guns.

As for price, as above, just shop around, don't be afraid to be a bit of a hard arse, don't let them guilt you into anything... if they want to make the sale, make them work for it.

My bro just bough a focus and fell for all that paint protection crap. I told him what you just said, but the idiot didn't believe me. "Oh you don't have to wax it ever again because the paint is protected!" :)

well mazda said tinting was 300 and paint protection is extra.....i told them no thanks - then went to premier tint and got it done for $195 (winter time its cheaper obviously), and paint protection, no need as I got all the right tools at home to keep the paint in perfect cond....

when you go through dealers, yeah they charge soo much - but if you can get it for free, then go for it i say

Im sure once the salesman see's the supple young swedish boy infront of him he'll work out some arrangement.....

lol just saw this - u funny phuck hahaha......sven....only J can come up wiht something like that lol

31,500 was RRP.. got it down to 28,300.. with 4 year factory waranty (1 year extra), floor mats, tank of petrol, slim line plates + extra 12 months rego on top...

28,500 is the 'invoice price' which they buy the car for from the manufacturer.. they then get rebates from the manufacturer.. so we did well.

Cheers

31,500 was RRP.. got it down to 28,300.. with 4 year factory waranty (1 year extra), floor mats, tank of petrol, slim line plates + extra 12 months rego on top...

28,500 is the 'invoice price' which they buy the car for from the manufacturer.. they then get rebates from the manufacturer.. so we did well.

Cheers

Wow great savings well done :laugh: ... Just out of interest how many dealers did you end up going to ?

2.... i went to the city one and the dude was a cock head, he wouldnt negotiate.... to which i said you just lost a sale and i left.

Then i went to the Bell St one in Preston and dealt with a guy my old lady already spoke to. I went right at the end of the day and I think they needed the extra sale as they were a bit desperate....

Me and the mrs have bough3 new cars in the last few years, 2 new mazda 3's for her 1 VE SS for me.

All their additional accessories they try and sell you are marked up 200-300% over what you could get it yourself for. Did they try and sell you the mazda special car wash?? We got a few bottles for free, and its rubbish stuff, leaves scuff marks and doesent clean heavy dirt off.

First new mazda 3 we bought we got from dande dealer and they wantd to charge $750 for tinted windows. I found out where they would get it done and it was the same place I got my car done 2 weeks prior or 1/4 of the price.

Me and the mrs have bough3 new cars in the last few years, 2 new mazda 3's for her 1 VE SS for me.

All their additional accessories they try and sell you are marked up 200-300% over what you could get it yourself for. Did they try and sell you the mazda special car wash?? We got a few bottles for free, and its rubbish stuff, leaves scuff marks and doesent clean heavy dirt off.

First new mazda 3 we bought we got from dande dealer and they wantd to charge $750 for tinted windows. I found out where they would get it done and it was the same place I got my car done 2 weeks prior or 1/4 of the price.

Yes true, I was always pressured to sell all that stuff too, esp if the car price was slashed! Prob why I didnt last!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...