Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

send it down to tassie, damo and i will throw a rb26 manifold on it, and even set it on fire if you want

No insurance thoe for fires. to many fires..... they wont cover us any more.

That may not be as silly as it sounds :) ..... :D

all i work on is r32s roy. TD06 and 2.2L is our circuit car specs.

i has a big new shed to.

tassy has the best events to.

if you flood the system well have to charge tripple just like all the major companies.

ben you can send yours down prior to targa. tim is just around the road from me so he can monitor progress. haha

You don't want them seeing under the bonnet benny, they might get a bit confused! IE Where does all the goodness come from when it looks so stock...

I'd say it all comes from the cabin though :(

But if you did send it down id be more than happy to keep the cobwebs off it :P

You don't want them seeing under the bonnet benny, they might get a bit confused! IE Where does all the goodness come from when it looks so stock...

I'd say it all comes from the cabin though :(

But if you did send it down id be more than happy to keep the cobwebs off it :P

we already had a good look at targa.

i already know the speed comes from captin clutch stabbing

Looks like a well sorted R33 . Go give it a trash and post up some vids :O

thanks =) still trying to sort out some issue regarding the gate not working :(

added some stuff

R32 GTR VSpec 2 N1 Master

img4585g.jpg

Change my seat from Zeta 2 to a Zeta 3 (sport) not really happy with the new seat as doesn't hold me enough compare to the old one so will most likely be going back

img4584.jpg

Relocated my afm to the intercooler piping so i can run a 4inch intake pipe; was a tight fit

img4590.jpg

Turbo atm, will get an intake pipe made up soon

img4588t.jpg

Just running in the lsd atm; 500km of easy street driving, then once that is done i get it on the dyno for a retune

Hey mate, all looking good :(

Can I ask how much you picked the N1 master cylinder up for, and where you got it from?

direct from Nissan lucky the Perth guy stocks them, was $450 or $500 trade price. There is afew types you can get i needed the non abs one with 3 outlet but they also have nonabs 2 outlet. If you need the part number let me know I got it written down somewhere

direct from Nissan lucky the Perth guy stocks them, was $450 or $500 trade price. There is afew types you can get i needed the non abs one with 3 outlet but they also have nonabs 2 outlet. If you need the part number let me know I got it written down somewhere

wow the new ones i priced up were around the $350 mark for future reference.

wow the new ones i priced up were around the $350 mark for future reference.

depending which type you get depends on the price. the 2 outlet one was $400 trade price.

also the non-abs one are alot more pricey as you can only get the vspec 2 n1 master (all other gtr models have abs)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...