Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Flat head screw driver goes here and lift, snap out they come :domokun:

Need to take them off when taking off the door trim

Finally did it, cracked them out and replaced with new parts....

Hm, driver side went ok, but I cracked my passenger side (the old one)...

pics here....

post-328-1252110330_thumb.jpg

So becareful anyone attempted this, they need some medium-hard yank down the bottom side with a flat head

then work your way carefully to dislodge the side clips, dont force them cos obviously they're a bit fragile...

Of course this is if you plan to put them back on, e.g. just for removing door trim purposes for speaker install, etc...

If you plan to replace them like mine, don't worry, crack it, break it, dump it. :-)

I'm also keeping the box lids where they've got the part # on in case I need to re-order new ones in case they're broken again....

Left (passenger) = 80945-AM800

Right (driver) = 80944-AM800

THESE WILL ONLY FIT V35 COUPES! (Sedan has different slant angle)

post-328-1252110339_thumb.jpg

Finally did it, cracked them out and replaced with new parts....

Hm, driver side went ok, but I cracked my passenger side (the old one)...

pics here....

post-328-1252110330_thumb.jpg

So becareful anyone attempted this, they need some medium-hard yank down the bottom side with a flat head

then work your way carefully to dislodge the side clips, dont force them cos obviously they're a bit fragile...

Of course this is if you plan to put them back on, e.g. just for removing door trim purposes for speaker install, etc...

If you plan to replace them like mine, don't worry, crack it, break it, dump it. :-)

I'm also keeping the box lids where they've got the part # on in case I need to re-order new ones in case they're broken again....

Left (passenger) = 80945-AM800

Right (driver) = 80944-AM800

THESE WILL ONLY FIT V35 COUPES! (Sedan has different slant angle)

post-328-1252110339_thumb.jpg

So what do you think went wrong with the one that cracked??

I yank it too hard from the bottom part, causing it to bend too much on the way out...

once you've yanked the bottom part out, work your way up by leveraging from under the cap and slightly spread the sides out so it snap out of the clips easier, don't bend it too much outwards...

  • 4 months later...

well I think either time or the 46C heat yesterday (or maybe combination) finally killed my passenger door lock actuator.

it won't trigger lock/unlock via the remote anymore. any idea how much it cost and if it is DIY?

well I think either time or the 46C heat yesterday (or maybe combination) finally killed my passenger door lock actuator.

it won't trigger lock/unlock via the remote anymore. any idea how much it cost and if it is DIY?

Make sure you haven't pressed the lock down button on the driver side controls :banana:

i got fooled for a bit with that

no the door lock button is to lock/unlock... that only locks/unlock driver side now. the other one is for windows lock. no other buttons.

as well as the alarm remote/fob key.

damn - Chris said it's not really DIY, need to strip down passenger door down to shell to get to the actuator...

I can only unlock the passenger car from inside the car now by pushing on the door handle button.

but when I unlock/lock using fob, I can hear the passenger side actuator working but it doesn't open.

maybe some kind of a catch got loose in the passenger side so the actuator wasn't pulling/pushing anything... :-(

on any of the cars I have done alarms on that door switch will run BOTH locks. the actuator is stuffed. there is no fixing it as the entire thing is sealed and it is the door catch as well. ask millos when yu see him next as I did his when I was last down there.

Chris,

The day after I picked my car up, the passenger window dragged/bounced when I wound it down and it hasn't been operating correctly since. Then yesterday the drivers window was playing up (when you close the door and it auto winds up against the door seal, it would wind down again).

The dealership gave me your card (for the audio conversion stuff). Do you offer services replacing the window motors?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
    • Alright I understand. The most likely case is probably gonna be that I just keep the OEM unit in the car as long as it works.
×
×
  • Create New...