Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well guys I have an HR31 GTSX and there is an RB25DET manual gearbox going in it. The 25 box has an electrical Speed sender and the R31 a cable sender. I am hearing a few things work like a Nissan navara sender but have been told they can be inaccurate. Been told my most accurate option is an R32 GTR sender. Any1 have any more info on this topic, how its done and what else is needed?

Thanx

Liam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177652-rb25-gearbox-to-r31-speedo/
Share on other sites

It just looks like a navara drive with an r33 cog on it. Nothing special. It will still be inaccurate if you don't have the same diff gears as an r33 (4.11s).

Some one has mentioned ripping the back off the r33 drive and fitting the back off the stock 32gtst drive. If it works it saves having to source any new parts (assuming you have the 33 drive). AFAIK the r31 drive is mechanically the same as 32.

I've posted numerous times how to do this to help people out.

It takes me less time to actually do the job than it does to type up how it's done.

Mainly because I type with one finger so I copied the following from one of my old posts.

The cheapest and best way to put a cable speedodrive in the RB25DET box is to use Navara speedodrive part no 32702-02G17.

It is very similar to the R32GTR speedodrive and only costs about $20.

Both these units require modification to work properly.

It requires some basic tools and skills.

There maybe a speedodrive available that bolts straight in but not at this price.

The Navara speedodrive comes with a 17 tooth gear that

you'll need to remove and replace it with the red 20 tooth gear from the rb25det box electronic speedodrive.

For an R32 with the stock 4.36 diff and tyres the ideal number of teeth is 21.

I estimate the 20 tooth gear will read about 105kph at 100kph but would be closer if you're running larger tyres.

You need to punch out the rollpin so you can pull the shaft out of the Navara assembly.

Use a hacksaw to make a helical cut along both sides of the 17 tooth gear being careful not to scratch the shaft. It should pry off.

Remove the circlip and pull the red gear from the electronic speedodrive.

The red gear located on a flat spot on the end of the r33 shaft

Use a round file to make the hole in the gear round.

Be careful not to make it sloppy on the shaft.

Support the red gear and drive the Navara shaft in until the splines press all the way through leaving about 2mm of shaft sticking out the end of the gear.

It's a tight fit so it should stay put without any glue.

Care needs to be taken to make sure the gear will mesh correctly with the wormgear inside the box.

You will notice the shaft is slightly off centre in the assembly.

Nissan rotate the assembly to compensate for the difference in diameter of the various gears they use.

Depending on the gear diameter they cut the retaining slot in a particular location to secure the assembly at a certain rotational position to achieve the correct gear clearance.

When putting the 20 tooth r33 gear on the Navara assembly you'll need to cut a new retaining slot exactly 180 degrees opposite the original slot.

I cut the slot with a hacksaw and cleaned it up with the edge of a small file. You need to be accurate here.

Put the shaft back in the assembly and drive the rollpin back in.

Check that it has about half a mm of end float between the body and the gear.

Now it should be ready to go in the box.

As stated in a previous post this assembly is accurate for speed with a 4.1 diff ratio.

What ratio are hr31 gtsx diffs?

I dont know what ratio the diffs r in stock HR31's. My speedo is already out, as my speedo reads 110km/h its actually doing approx 95km/h so maybe an owner in Japan has changed the diff already. If it is now reading more than my actual speed this modification sounds like it will make it more accurate. At 60km/h on the speedo I am doing closer to 50km/h etc. Thanks for the info, sounds like the way to go and would make my current speedo a little more accurate than it already is. Good info. Exactly what I wanted to hear lol.. $20..

Thanx

Liam

In my r32 with 4.3's my speedo reads about 10% high with the navara drive/r33 cog, checked with gps. So 110km/h on speedo = 100km/h actual speed

The difference between the 20 and 21 tooth gear can be expressed as a percentage (4.76%) which will be the same percentage the speedo will be out (+4.76kph@100kph) relative to what it was before swapping the cogs.

If it was out before the swap then of course you have to add that to the difference.

Fordy if your speedo reads 110 when you are actually doing 95kph then it is out the same way but it depends how many teeth the speedodrive has in your current gearbox.

Have you checked?

I had a GTR speed sender, around $140 second hand.

Just swap the gear over and put back into the 25 box i believe.

I was going to go the Navara route, but it was too much dicking around back in 2004 when i needed the car done.

It just looks like a navara drive with an r33 cog on it. Nothing special. It will still be inaccurate if you don't have the same diff gears as an r33 (4.11s).

Some one has mentioned ripping the back off the r33 drive and fitting the back off the stock 32gtst drive. If it works it saves having to source any new parts (assuming you have the 33 drive). AFAIK the r31 drive is mechanically the same as 32.

did you use the 21/17 tooth navara drive? I heard on the grape vine that you can't get one of them any more.

Have my 25 box now and i'm trying to get all these parts together!

I actually used a s/h gtr drive as i could get one straight away. Swapped cogs with the 25 drive.

The navara drive is better because it has a longer shaft better suited to the long 21 tooth gear. It's only a matter of swapping cogs, not a big issue (unless you didn't get a stock speed sender with the 25 box)

Booster, your calc is backwards. 20-21 tooth would mean a reduction in output shaft speed (everything else being equal) and result in a reduction in the displayed speed, not an increase. You are assuming that the drive gear in the box's are the same also.

I actually used a s/h gtr drive as i could get one straight away. Swapped cogs with the 25 drive.

The navara drive is better because it has a longer shaft better suited to the long 21 tooth gear. It's only a matter of swapping cogs, not a big issue (unless you didn't get a stock speed sender with the 25 box)

Booster, your calc is backwards. 20-21 tooth would mean a reduction in output shaft speed (everything else being equal) and result in a reduction in the displayed speed, not an increase. You are assuming that the drive gear in the box's are the same also.

ye i got the 25 gearbox speed sensor, i think u can't get the 21 tooth drive any more, will the 17 tooth one be sufficient?

lol i have a 32 with neo and r33 g box ordered direct from nissan the nivara cog 32702-02G17 and then realised that the 17 on the end was the teeth number

the 17 tooth drive origanaly cost $18 now is like 45 and you can buy it from holden as well as a vl turbo speedo drive but they will sting you anywhere between 80 and 140 as i found out originaly buying one of these cause the mx7 gear box in vl turbo is very simalar to r33 turbo so i brought one of these from holden then realising that was in a nissan box rang my mate at nissan and then promptly took bad the one to holden long story talked to my mate at nissan we ordered a 32702-02G21 ex jaan and presto off the shelf 100 % bang on and only $56 so you guys that are paying $300 for this you have been shafted i hope this helps but aparently the 21 tooth has been finished or nissan aus wont get them anymore

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...