Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 175
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im not really sure to be completely honest, ive never looked at the supercheap ones. My guess is SuperCheap ones would be less quality at that price? (Im not an expert on fire extiguishers, i am just orgainsing them) The ones im organising come with aust standard sticker, bracket etc.

This is the only type that i have ever used and trusted.

the main difference between cheaper ones, and more expensive ones are: the amount of powder in them, the quality of the casing, quality of valve and of course the rating. the ratings for 1kg extinguishers varies a lot. try and find out the rating if you can. but if they are a good extinguisher, for $33 that's a bargain!

the main difference between cheaper ones, and more expensive ones are: the amount of powder in them, the quality of the casing, quality of valve and of course the rating. the ratings for 1kg extinguishers varies a lot. try and find out the rating if you can. but if they are a good extinguisher, for $33 that's a bargain!

Thanks for the info. I knew there would be a difference but i didnt know what as i am not an extinguisher expert., Thanks :fakenopic:

Just for reference, these ones i am getting are being purchased through Revolution Racegear. I am posting the details as i have received soo many PM telling me they can be bought cheaper elsewhere like Supercheap etc. Im certainly not saying you cant get them cheaper, but i would prefer to pay a little more and get better quality.

I make no profit out of these, Revolution Racegear are charging us $33 each for them (if we can get the numbers) and i am passing that on. Its purely up to you guys as to weather you want to buy them from here at $33 or buy somewhere else. I dont mind. But, if the order is not 25 minimum then that price deal to us will be cancelled.

Thanks

Brad

do they help with insurance?

They are insurance dude!!!! LOL

It probably wont make a difference to your policy. Maybe check with your insurance company, i know my insurance is the same with or with out it.

The brand of the units are "FLAMESTOP" (certainly hope it does what it says!)

Specifications

Model # FSW100

Working pressure 1350KPA @ 23celcius

Periodic testing 2.5MPA

Net Mass 1KG

Gross Mass Charged 2.15KG

Mauf to AS/NZS 1841.5

Oh, and they are red! :)

Hope that helps anyone considering the purchase.

Ill count up orders on Sunday.

Cheers

Good job Mike!!!! Mine looks just like that :stupid:

So far we have 28 so the order should go ahead pending payments. I am pretty sure we can get more, if we need more. Ill confirm tomorrow how many is in stock so i dont but what we cant get LOL

Ill PM those who have ordered them on sunday night, or monday. Payments as quick as possible would be good so there is no hold ups. Payments will be fairly easy, either cash to me, or direct deposit.

Thanks guys....this has taken off a lot more than i thought it would LOL Keep them coming

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...