Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i have been send a list of boost controllers i can get at a reasonable price from japan from a mate, am having trouble deciding which one to get, the ones i can get are..........

apexi s-avc-r

blitz sbc i-colour

blitz dual sbc type r

blitz dual sbc type s

blitz dual sbc id-3

hks evc4

hks evc5

trust profec b spec 2

money isnt an issue, i just want to choose the right one.. what are your thoughts.... its for an r33 gtst series 1, modded rb25, will be running round 20psi..cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178850-electronic-boost-controller-choice/
Share on other sites

^^^ over ten years old and not real stable.

spec-r for the best value for money. The dual solenoid controllers from BLITZ are unrivalled for boost control, the amount of features on the i-color is cool but i never use them so i dont bother with them. Spec-r or IDIII... cant go wrong.

As said above, Blitz ID3 or spec R if you dont want the flashy features of the i-colour. Blitz dual solenoid boost controllers have been tested many times in magazines such as Zoom and have been voted the best for holding boost. I still like the Greddy Profec B 2 though :D All great boost controllers in my books.

something cheap, easy to install, and holds boost well go the gizzmo ebc. i rekon there pretty good. sometimes thay can spike 1psi over. best to overtune your car then drop it down abit though to be 100% safe

they go for like 350

i have had experience with a gizzmo, greddy profec b spec II and the blitz id3. and the blitz is by far the easiest to use and best looking. if your after the wank factor of scramble boost, not all ebcs have them eg: greddy profec b, but i can tell u the blitz and the gizzmo do. hope that helps

HKS EVC 5 is by far of the best performing EBC out in the market today..

But it is also one of the most expensive on the market..

Profec B spec 2 is awesome but it a nightmare for someone to setup if they not used on those them before..

I have personally always used profec B but after all my mates moved to HKS EVC 5.. I am looking to buy 1 myself in the next few weeks..

Edited by JSL

This would all come down to personal preference. personally ill go the Blitz SBC. it is pricy but then again i dont need to have gauges hanging off everything just to tell me what the car is doing. all in 1 nice neat clear screen.

You could always buy/build the Jaycar kit unit . It works off injector duty cycle which is a far better signal than a map sensor . Have a read of what SK did with his Stagea .

Cheers A .

you can do that with the blitz id series and up, no need though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...