Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HKS EVC 5 is by far of the best performing EBC out in the market today..

But it is also one of the most expensive on the market..

Profec B spec 2 is awesome but it a nightmare for someone to setup if they not used on those them before..

I have personally always used profec B but after all my mates moved to HKS EVC 5.. I am looking to buy 1 myself in the next few weeks..

yeah it is rather expensive but cheaper than the blitz i-colour, such a hard choice, a mate of mine has blitz sbc id-3 and says its great, im heading that way.. cheers

I use a AVC-R there prone to over boosting when the weather is very cold.. Not such a bad thing but personaly the price you spend on a decent boost controler could go

into getting yourself a decent computer system so you dont need to run AFM's and that can run the boost from inside the car via a Digital pannel.

about 2200 for a really good system Mark at Godzilla was talking about them the other day. Personaly i know ill be changing to it when i get my next GTR

PS: I love this pic :P got to put it in my post lol

I got the acvr and i find it anoying. I want to set the max boost my car will run and leave it at that not have to bother with duty cycles and crap like that.

Stupid thing should figure that all out by its self

Dislike the boost controller kit on the PFC, my car always runs under the boost level.

It's been set to 1.10kg/cm2 but I usually only hit 0.95kg/cm2. Once in a while it will boost over 1.00kg/cm2 and only once I've hit 1.09kg/cm2 (closest to 1.10kg/cm2 ever)!

Going to be changing to Blitz SBC i-D III in future.

Sorry to hi-jack this thread but does anyone know where a good place is to place the PM and SBC without getting a defect as well as causing attention to be stolen, yet still for you to see?

^^^ over ten years old and not real stable.

spec-r for the best value for money. The dual solenoid controllers from BLITZ are unrivalled for boost control, the amount of features on the i-color is cool but i never use them so i dont bother with them. Spec-r or IDIII... cant go wrong.

trent what's the difference between the Blitz SBC spec S and the Spec R? is the spec S not Dual solenoid? spec S any good.

edit: got off my arse and checked for myself! I was right. Spec R is dual solenoid, Spec S is single.

I am also lookin into getting a boost controller and it seems like the blitz id3 has come out the winner. May i ask you sweetr33 how much you can get the blitz dual sbc id-3 for?

hi, im getting it for 516 delivered, but nengun have em for cheaper....$503 delivered i believe...cheers

  • 1 month later...

Hi guys.

I'm also in the market for an EBC & I've narrowed my choices down to a Blitz SBC ID3 or a HKS EVC5.

1 thing I want to be able to do is hide the boost module in the engine bay if I can (cops in Adelaide are pricks & will defect you for it). I saw 1 Blitz boost module once & it was huge, but I'm unsure if it was for an ID3. From what I've seen the HKS Boost module is far more compact (& possibly lighter), which has me swinging towards it a bit.

Performance wise, I'm yet to see/hear of anyone doing a direct comparision between the 2 or having experience with both, so any information would be greatly appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...