Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

My headunit was replaced at the purchase of my car but i realised that my head unit does not have the auto antenna wire that pushes up the antenna when the head unit is on.

I do have the stock switch that lowers the antenna down and up but because its not connected to the head unit, it does not work.

Does anyone know where i can hook up the wire to?

just to clear things.

My headunit did not come with a auto antenna wire, where else can i hook it up to?

Thanks pplz!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180019-antenna-switch/
Share on other sites

The standard switch should only change whether the mast is half-height or full height. The power-antenna wire on the headunit is used to fully retract the aerial when the tuner is not on (i.e. when you are playing a CD / auxillary input)

So if you don't have an power-antenna wire on your headunit, it should raise when you turn the ignition on, and retract when you switch off.

If you want to lower it fully, you'll have to wire up a manual switch off the factory loom. I guess you might be able to use the remote wire to trigger a relay, but all that would achieve is being able to retract the aerial when the headunit is not active (& in my car, the headunit is on probably 99% of the time the car is, which would make it kinda pointless in my opinion).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180019-antenna-switch/#findComment-3276062
Share on other sites

yeah i want the half / full height option. i dont have that switch on my dash.

my aerial fully extends when tuner is selected on the head unit, and fully retracts when any other source is selected, or unit is off.

thats all good. but i want to only raise it half way when using the tuner.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180019-antenna-switch/#findComment-3276146
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
The standard switch should only change whether the mast is half-height or full height. The power-antenna wire on the headunit is used to fully retract the aerial when the tuner is not on (i.e. when you are playing a CD / auxillary input)

So if you don't have an power-antenna wire on your headunit, it should raise when you turn the ignition on, and retract when you switch off.

If you want to lower it fully, you'll have to wire up a manual switch off the factory loom. I guess you might be able to use the remote wire to trigger a relay, but all that would achieve is being able to retract the aerial when the headunit is not active (& in my car, the headunit is on probably 99% of the time the car is, which would make it kinda pointless in my opinion).

Ive got a stacker in my 33 which only works through the radio frequency. I want to be able to lower the antenna when im using the stacker tho.

To acheive this can i just put a switch in to the remote wire so i can manually retract the aerial when the radio is on???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180019-antenna-switch/#findComment-3321420
Share on other sites

Ive got a Xplod HU with mini disk player a jap edition.

And the answer is yes it works, I put a switch on the standard power antenna wire (green with red stripe) and done!!!

The antenna works as normal but i can over ride it when I'm listening to the stacker.

Nice!! :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180019-antenna-switch/#findComment-3322669
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I hooked mine up to the amp trigger wire (blue), it puts the arial up every time you turn on the head unit, but it still works. I am going to put a small switch in this to stop it being used all the time, maybe that will help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180019-antenna-switch/#findComment-3432736
Share on other sites

haha u definately dont wanna do this haha they get the worst reception :rolleyes: mine barely works

I havn't had any problems with reception either, if anything I can pick up good reception with the antenna all the way down.

I'm very happy with the result, just need to replace with better looking switch and im done!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180019-antenna-switch/#findComment-3432825
Share on other sites

I modded the factory switch wiring on a 33 aerial so it was either down or half up, never fully up. it was a girls car and the pioneer didnt put the aerial down when playing cds which annoyed her.

Also on r32s the aerial has a booster wire that needs power on it to get any reception it is a black wire with red trace. the main aerial in them is in the back window the one in the front is for am. Aerpro make a good aerial that has a wire you run through the car as the antenna i put them around the head lining. they get really good reception and are a good replacement if you dont want a external aerial

Edited by kiwi32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180019-antenna-switch/#findComment-3437524
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Ive got a Xplod HU with mini disk player a jap edition.

And the answer is yes it works, I put a switch on the standard power antenna wire (green with red stripe) and done!!!

The antenna works as normal but i can over ride it when I'm listening to the stacker.

Nice!! :D

Here's an idea, how about finding out the length of time it takes for antenna to raise and lower... then adding a timer to your switch? So everytime you click the switch it activates the timer, which then allows current to run for a set amount of time... like maybe 2 secs for half raised, or 4 secs for fully raised... Jaycar has DIY kits for timer...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180019-antenna-switch/#findComment-3542611
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...