Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I am looking into getting the xforce turbo back system for my R32 GTR. She's making 330rwhp and has a cat back system on it at the moment.

I'm after comments on power gains and how noisy it will be also. The current Veilside system on it now is really quiet, so it may be a bit of a shock if it's killer loud and full of drone.

Anyway the x-force kit is 3.5" in SS and includes, dumps, front pipe, resonator, cat and rear cannon (so everything as a bolt on kit).

Has anyone got any experience with this? - is it cheap(ish) for good reason or will it do the job?

Don't want to buy this thing and regret it so ........any feedback will be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180143-xforce-turbo-back-system/
Share on other sites

It will do the job just fine. Power gains will definitely be noticeable, this mainly comes from upgrading the dump pipes. Bolts straight up without modification to anything.

Noise shouldn't be too loud or droney, but it won't be silent either.

I'm only speaking from experience from my own xforce system, but its on a r33 gts-t, so it's a bit different from your car.

Hey yeah ive got a Turbo back X-force on my Series 2 33 ripped the silencer out has a good tune to it not loud , but catches the on lookers attention, and felt good power gain after bolting it on aswell, but then again ur car is diff but shld get a good bit of power out of it...

I have an xforce stainless catback ,stainless cat and stainless front/dump on mine and there is no drone and it flows very well. it was as good quality as the jap branded ones i looked at and i would buy on again.

I dunno how everyone is saying they are not that loud! Ive got a full stainless steel 3" xforce turboback on my car and i reckon its damn loud. I wanna try and get it made quieter. Mine has a hotdog and rear cannon. Are all you guys using hotdogs or do you have oval resonators?

I dunno how everyone is saying they are not that loud! Ive got a full stainless steel 3" xforce turboback on my car and i reckon its damn loud. I wanna try and get it made quieter. Mine has a hotdog and rear cannon. Are all you guys using hotdogs or do you have oval resonators?

Nah I've got the oval resonator. Maybe Xforce changed the type of resonator they put on from hotdog to oval. When I bought mine I wasn't given a choice to which was on there.

my 33 had the full xforce turbo back system when i got it. It was a damn nice sounding system. Not too loud but, as said before, loud enough to do the job. I have updated to a 3and1/2 system for my build. Hope its not too much louder than the xforce.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...