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This is my setup at the moment. Still a work in progress (Odviously, seen as no wires are connected), been over 6 months since its been connected. Besides wiring it up (Wires already in place, just need to be connected), just need to put brackets in to hold the amps as seen in the pics. Then I'll make up a fibreglass shell that will sit over the top of the install that will sit flush with the opening on the boot (with cut outs so the amps and subs sit out)

Only One thing. And Opinions would be greatly appreciated. Is what to put in the space between the subs.

Option 1: Capicator- Look good, does nothing :P

Option 2: Screen (already got dvd player in the front so easy install but a bit over budget)

Option 3: Static display of some description. Not overly sure what. Any thoughts please let me know

p.s the pic makes it look a bit misaligned. But in the flesh it looks a lot better

bootinstallprog.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

this is my system hope its worthy....... at the moment system is out of the car as it is being repaired due to the fibreglass boxes fracturing under too much bass pressure :down: but will post more pics once the system is reinstalled and re-done a little different....

Specs:

Headunit: Clarion MAX676VD 2 DIN 7 inch touch screen headunit

Front: Clarion 6 inch 2 way component speaker system 250 watts (doors & parcel shelf)

Amp: Clarion APX 4360 640 watts 4 channel amp

6x9: i have subs........ no need for 6x9s :D

Sub Amp: Clarion DPX11500 1500 watts monoblock amp

Sub: 2 x Clarion PXW1251 dual 2OHM voice coil 500 watts RMS 1000 watts maximum power

Capacitor: Aerpro PS56 3 farad capacitor

Wiring: 2 gauge power wire

Car:

Make: Nissan

Model: Skyline

Year: 1995

Pictures:

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  • 2 weeks later...

ok gone though the tread and have seen some really nice setups and was interested in getting mine done... are all these DIY setups if so are all you carpenters? lol as there is some good installs which i dont think i would be able to do...

Is it just a case of gonig to your hardware store and getting the stuff then having a go or does it take alot of planning

Lol dont know about Carpenter. Just a DIY hack.

Just have a thought at your budget, and goals. Think of a design trying to keep in mind your experience level. At the end of the day. If it will fit and you can afford it, it is possible.

In my case im just making my box out of MDF so it just fit in the boot, then adding everything else over the top to turn it into a display (Keep in mind diff subs require diff size boxes). If you want to keep it simple make a box using mdf, screws and some form of silicon (Seal any leaks), get a spray adhesive and carpet the box. Mount amp to side of box. If that works for you.

I generally get my timber at the local bunnings, fibreglass supplys from a paint place.

Just think before you buy and work out roughly how much you need before you buy everything or it will get costly very quick. Or you'll end up 5mm short.

I just decided one day that i wanted to try fibreglassing so I thought of an "unrelated to the stereo" idea of something to make to get experience. And slowly worked my confidence up into trying to integrate it into the stereo setup. (In my case to conceal any imperfections in my carpentry and wiring :( )

Hopefully ill have an update to mine in the next week or 2 with a few minor changes to amp locations as well as its all wired up. Mightn't have the quality of some of the jobs here. But for my first backyard "not simple" install it is coming up as good as i believe i can get it.

Luke

Edited by l_uk3y
  • 2 months later...

Ok few more progress pics. Turning into a very drawn out procedure. But slowly getting there.

The False Floor over the top still needs to have the height set properly (being held up by paint cans there) lol. As well as they need to be trimmed and Fibreglassed. As well as need to make up Fibreglass walls to conceal all the ugly bits. And heaven forbid. Some blue lighting to light up the Visible Areas. And underneath the false Floor. White strobes which will light up through the amp holes and sub holes. And for all the people who think. NEONS WHAT???? Ive designed the whole system to be removable in about 15 minutes for Track work, by keeping all parts modular, and using plugs on all the wiring. Just a case of actually making it look ok now. Opinions would be good. Although odviously they aint gunna be much because it looks very half done still.

Color scheme of install will be Silver with metallic blue.

Cheers. Luke

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here is my install, hope this meets the grade

Head, Alpine double din DVD player

Front, Alpine 6.5 splits

Amp, Alpine V12 4 channel

Rear, Earthquake 2 ways

Sub, Eclipse 10" x2 single voice coils

Sub Amp, Alpine mono block

Cap, Stinger 1 Fared

Wiring, Stinger 0 guage wiring kit

Car, Nissan

Model, R33 Skyline S2 (4 Door)

Year, 1996

post-31128-1231134618_thumb.jpgpost-31128-1231134938_thumb.jpg

Headunit:jvc exad

Front: cdt

Amp:

6x9:

Sub Amp: digital designs Z1

Sub: DD9918c

Capacitor: None

Wiring: 0AWG

Car:nissan

Make: nissan

Model: pulsar n14

Year: 94

heres a flex video of it , l managed a 147db on music

hope yous like it, l now have 2 off these woofers , with a 5000rms amp

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=SeIGNRuDRzw&...re=channel_page

Edited by philsGTR
  • 2 months later...

Here's my effort, being a bit of an older fart (41) I'm not so much into the Doof-Doof, but wanted a good strong sound (still play it loud and love to rock), stock look and no loss of boot space.

Did all the work myself, just completed last weekend, really satisfying doing it your own way and getting the detail right rather than have someone do a butch job and charging $300.

Really happy with the end result.

Headunit: Sony MEX-BT2600 cd/mp3, aux input, Bluetooth

Front & Rear speakers: Sony 6.5" 4 way speakers GTX 1640 70Watts rated

Amp: Sony XM4S Small footprint 4 * 50Watt RMS

Wiring: Sony 4 gauge power wire c/w 16 gauge speaker wire and RCA cables

Speakers fitted in with virtually no mods, just busted off a small plastic post on the stock nissan speaker surrounds, althoug I had to grind off a fair bit on the underside of the seatbelt anchor bosses which cover the rear speakers as they would have fouled.

Made up the amp bracket out of some 12mm plywood (dont use MDF as it's just compressed cardboard= crap) and so it wouldn't look loke a timber shelf, I covered it with some Fake Carbon fibre contact, looks cool.

Headunit basically dropped in,...Sony have the headunit drilled and tapped for standard mounts in late model Toyotas and Nissans so factory bracket and Nissan DIN pocket just screwed in, wiring was fairly straight forward, found great advice on all the Do's and Don'ts on the Web.

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  • 2 months later...

Here is mine.

HeadUnit: Kenwood DNX7320 Double Din DVD GPS

Front: Alpine 6.5" Type R Splits

Rear: Alpie 6.5" Type R Coax

Sub: Kicker 10" CVT Shallow Mount

Amp: JBL 755.6 Grand Touring 6 Channel Amp

Wiring: No name 4GA Power, Audiopipe Stinger 16GA Speaker cable, Audiopipe RCA cable.

Dynamat Xtreme sound deadening in door, boot and rear B/C pillar. No deadening on floor as I use sound insulation underfelt.

Fronts are installed in the stock location with some custom spacers and some trimming of the inner door skin with tweeters mounted on the mirror triangle bit. Rears are installed at stock location. Sub is installed in the spare wheel well.

interior01.jpg

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amp.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

I've just finshed installing a set of new Boston PRO60 SE's in my R34 in Bi-wire/bi-amp formation and they sound fantastic. With over 70rms delivered to each woofer and tweeter in the car the sound stage delivers sounds I NEVER knew existed in songs! Surely worth the 1k or so they are worth

Next is to replace the subs I blew - Who knew you could actually blow 1000wrms subs!

Edited by DECIM8

to the guys with custom boots, do you still have your spare wheel and is it easy to access?

if you dont have you had any flat tyres or are you paranoid about getting one as im about to start custom boot and just after opinions and thoughts

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