Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

water_bleed.jpg

plenum_install.jpg

This way you don't have to block off any pipes. Just remember to mount the bleed valve so its the highest spot on the cooling system.

Are 1 & 3 the wrong way around?

On mine the turbo water line that comes through the stock plenum goes to 3 on the bleed valve.

just did this having some problems with boost......http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Put-Greddy-Copy-Manifol-t250499.html&gopid=4339490#entry4339490

FREAKIN GREAT THREAD!!!! so so so so so so much help...:spank:

  • 3 weeks later...

hey guys! top write up by the way.

i want to do this for my first big task for 2009. will probably get the kit from Just Jap.

i want to keep my plum back BOV...how did anyone do the recirc piping???i will also keep the heating of the throttle body...will do extra piping for that.

any other tips?

how did you gouys do the piping through the side wall instead of moving the water container???

also do you loose midrange by going with this plenum??? i have heard that might happen....obviously you gain top end a little.

my main purpose of doing this is to just neaten the engine bay and get more response... i love response!

  • 1 month later...

looking at doing this on my new stag just to clear up the engine bay and shorten the intercooler piping... has anyone completed this on a neo rb25?? if so, was it much different?? did you use the standard TB or get one of those 80mm ones?? thanks guys

hey guys! top write up by the way.

i want to do this for my first big task for 2009. will probably get the kit from Just Jap.

i want to keep my plum back BOV...how did anyone do the recirc piping???i will also keep the heating of the throttle body...will do extra piping for that.

any other tips?

how did you gouys do the piping through the side wall instead of moving the water container???

I used the stock plumback BOV. Don't know if that's the best place to put it. But it works.

post-33072-1236083545_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

so i bought the bullet and mine will be arriving inthe next few days...bought the vulture motorsport one...$535 including shipping and throttlebody adaptor...will keep you posted.

hey guys, i have received my plenum and i have some questions for those who have done this...

whith the water inlet/outlet pipe: does the pipe insert into the plenum with ease or was it very hard to insert? mine seems to be quite easy to insert and hence would require some kind of sealant... if this is how it is, what sealant did you use?

yeah it gets to the end and just stops. hitting it in wont help/happen. i might weld it in...keep you all postred with pics.

i'm also going to make myown throttle adaptor...

Yours from Vulture Motorsports as well? Just use lots of gasket maker to seal up the water thing.

What's the quality of your runners and water galleries? I was on the die grinder for a couple of hours making sure it matched the head gasket.

quality of casting on the manifold seems to be quite good, need better pics of a greddy to compare. i have yet to take my current stock manifold off to compare the gasket to the vulture plenum. i am hoping is close or spot on...don't really feel like grinding...

mine came with a so called stock throttle adaptor but was made completely wrong. i am having mine milled down as we speak. the thing i have an issue is that on the manifold, they haven't spent anytime milling out where all the bolts go so when you put a bolt through the whole, neither the head of the bolt nor the washer will sit flat...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...