Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Folks

Ive done a bit of a search but couldnt find an answer so if there is one out there and ive missed it, plz dont shoot

my question is, I have an r32 gtr - I would like to have dual exhausts from the turbo back, however I'm not sure how this will affect the o2 sensor setup...

There's a reason they merge the pipes, if you really want to have twin exhausts do it like they do on V8s and use a cross over pipe, this way you use the exhaust system more effectively increasing flow and also avoiding this problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/14/#findComment-5307146
Share on other sites

There's a reason they merge the pipes, if you really want to have twin exhausts do it like they do on V8s and use a cross over pipe, this way you use the exhaust system more effectively increasing flow and also avoiding this problem.

cool thanks for the advice, i think thats the easiest thing to do rather than messing around with the o2 sensors

-D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/14/#findComment-5307324
Share on other sites

Hi Folks

Ive done a bit of a search but couldnt find an answer so if there is one out there and ive missed it, plz dont shoot

my question is, I have an r32 gtr - I would like to have dual exhausts from the turbo back, however I'm not sure how this will affect the o2 sensor setup...

From what I understand there are 2 o2 sensors for the 'before cat' and 'after cat' positions, my concern is if one could put a dual setup on a gtr and use either a single pipe as an enrichment template, OR if i could add another 2 o2 sensors and then aggregate and halve the values produced to nistune

Im not a mechanic and I really dont know how this all works, however I just want to know if its possible to run dual pipes, and how I may go about it

Thanks

-D

Its simple, gtr's have 2 o2 sensors, one for each turbo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/14/#findComment-5307343
Share on other sites

From what I understand there are 2 o2 sensors for the 'before cat' and 'after cat' positions, my concern is if one could put a dual setup on a gtr and use either a single pipe as an enrichment template, OR if i could add another 2 o2 sensors and then aggregate and halve the values produced to nistune

No one actually picked up on this... There is only pre-cat O2 sensors on a GTR, the post cat sensor is an EGT for sensing when the cat is too hot only.

Running twin pipes full length will be no problem at all, just disconnect the post cat egt (plugged in under passenger seat then through floor).

I for one would be curious how a full twin system would sound :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/14/#findComment-5307407
Share on other sites

No one actually picked up on this... There is only pre-cat O2 sensors on a GTR, the post cat sensor is an EGT for sensing when the cat is too hot only.

Running twin pipes full length will be no problem at all, just disconnect the post cat egt (plugged in under passenger seat then through floor).

I for one would be curious how a full twin system would sound :D

correctamondo there is two o2 sensors on a gtr in each dump pipe and a egt sensor near the cat pretty much does Jack all tho so don't worry about it. But have good o2 or new ones to get good closed loop in nistune

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/14/#findComment-5307429
Share on other sites

No one actually picked up on this... There is only pre-cat O2 sensors on a GTR, the post cat sensor is an EGT for sensing when the cat is too hot only.

Running twin pipes full length will be no problem at all, just disconnect the post cat egt (plugged in under passenger seat then through floor).

I for one would be curious how a full twin system would sound :D

beat me to it. yeah the 02 sensors are in the dump pipe, so you could run a twin system with twin cat's if you wanted. might struggle for space though. you'd probably only want to run a twin 2.5" system or maybe 2.75" system, because unless you are running some big power that is all you'll need (a twin 2.5" system will have a bigger volume than a single 3" system).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/14/#findComment-5307432
Share on other sites

beat me to it. yeah the 02 sensors are in the dump pipe, so you could run a twin system with twin cat's if you wanted. might struggle for space though. you'd probably only want to run a twin 2.5" system or maybe 2.75" system, because unless you are running some big power that is all you'll need (a twin 2.5" system will have a bigger volume than a single 3" system).

two 2.5 catco cats would work nice on a twin system but unless you are wanting to push a 1000+ hp a good 3 inch or 3 1/4 will do the job.

Plus you can buy them off the shelf and runing a custom twin system would be a right pain.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/14/#findComment-5307451
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

Ive read through this post but i havent really come accross with an answer so i thought ill just ask!

I know that to run nistune in a r33 you'll either need a r32 ecu or a 300 ecu but does anyone know if nistune are planning to make a board thats compatible with the standard r33 ecu considering most the other models can run nistune standard?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/14/#findComment-5307711
Share on other sites

I for one would be curious how a full twin system would sound :D

Will sound the same unless you move the pipes to different sides of the car or you are standing directly behind it.

Personally I would still use a cross over pipe, reasoning being is only 1 cylinder is firing at once, if you have twin separate pipes then the single pulse is only going out one pipe, if you have a cross over pipe then its going out both pipes.

Obviously with a turbo and the compression of the exhaust gases the pulses basically merge into a constant flow, but there are still some gains to be had by using a cross over pipe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/14/#findComment-5308848
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys,

I have got a R33 GTS4 with an rb25det. Took the car down to a tuner today only to call me back up saying he cannot place the Z32 nistuned ecu in it due to it being AWD. How can I get past this as I really don't want to give up my midrange power by losing my VCT?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/14/#findComment-5374955
Share on other sites

how does the engine computer affect the AWD in the transmission on these? With Z32 ECUs you still have VCT but with R32 ECUs you need an external VCT controller (based from RPM signal)

anyone know if nistune are planning to make a board thats compatible with the standard r33 ecu

I was planning at one stage but the extra work with complete new board design, prototyping etc, new firmware and very difficult installation made it a difficult one to approach

Coupled with Z32/R32 ECUs now provided as viable alternatives means the effort to make boards for these is no longer viable (especially with my current work load)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/14/#findComment-5375309
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

I have got a R33 GTS4 with an rb25det. Took the car down to a tuner today only to call me back up saying he cannot place the Z32 nistuned ecu in it due to it being AWD. How can I get past this as I really don't want to give up my midrange power by losing my VCT?

They finally worked it out and have put in a z32 ecu after downloading a new image. Just got it done yesterday and have noticed my slip light randomly stays on until I turn the car off. I haven't tested it if its running RWD as do not want to do any harm.

This seems to be a common problem with some GTRs however I know this is caused by nistune or the tuner themselves. Anyone got any clues?

Apart from this light coming on every now and then my car is running better than I ever expected, love Nistune :P.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/14/#findComment-5390404
Share on other sites

They finally worked it out and have put in a z32 ecu after downloading a new image. Just got it done yesterday and have noticed my slip light randomly stays on until I turn the car off. I haven't tested it if its running RWD as do not want to do any harm.

This seems to be a common problem with some GTRs however I know this is caused by nistune or the tuner themselves. Anyone got any clues?

Apart from this light coming on every now and then my car is running better than I ever expected, love Nistune :P .

i had mine dynoed with a z32 then with the r32 and lost no midrange at all?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/14/#findComment-5390602
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

Ive read through this post but i havent really come accross with an answer so i thought ill just ask!

I know that to run nistune in a r33 you'll either need a r32 ecu or a 300 ecu but does anyone know if nistune are planning to make a board thats compatible with the standard r33 ecu considering most the other models can run nistune standard?

To the best of my knwledge:

No!

The Z32 ECU is supposed to run alright so Nistune (Matt) won't be doing this board ..

R32 ECU = No Variable Cam Timing!

Z32 ECU = Variable Cam Timing Works

Edited by Torques
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/14/#findComment-5391720
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...