Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive changed question to now to if a r34 frontcut be suitable for a rb25det to rb25de conversion as i found a cheap statuatory r34 writeoff for sale. i dont want to hear anything about its a waste of time, buy n/a skyline etc. just want to know if r34 is suitable or would it have problems

Edited by gach2

Cost vs gain = Cheaper to purchase the N/A and drive it for 3 years.

Swapping out a motor is going to cost you a lot more than the car is worth.

Just to get around the laws isnt a good reason to waste money when there is a cheaper & easier alternative right infront of you.

Plus R33's in 3 years time are going to be 10k or less, and R34's will be at the prices R33's are at now.

Just buy a shitbox to drive around till you get off your P's... Or just buy a non-turbo skyline, and then buy a turbo skyline when you get off your P's? Turbo skylines will be even cheaper when you get off your P's because R33 GTS-T's are dropping in value all the time.

Im confused by your reason for buying a turbo :P

n/a r33s are around 10-15k in sydney

ive been offered an gtst r33 for around 5k (needs compliance plate to be redone which ive been told by rta is only engineerin plate as the car has been previously registered in nsw)

would someone please tell me all parts

Edited by gach2

Like everyone else has said, the money could be spent elsewhere.

Can you rego a car that has had the compliance plates removed? Not rego without a plate, but make another for it?

yes it can be regoed

all it needs is a engineering cert or plate (forgot what its called in nsw) which is around 700

after that all it needs is blue slip and then it can be regoed

the car was registered in nsw for over a year. if not recompliancing it would be an issue

does anyone actually know what parts are going to be needed for the conversion

i did speak to my mechanic before about putting rb25de in a vl and he said it was gonna cost around 1500 labour and parts but that was just hypothetical at the time. im assuming this will be similar or even cheaper on a r33. does anyone here actually knows anything about the conversion and parts required.

Edited by gach2

Mate if you look around people won't be getting 15K for an NA R33. I've seen them for sale for around $8-12k, and they wouldnt be getting the asking price either. Just look around, or buy an R31.

I can guarantee you by the end of your P-plater days, you will have gotten sick of the R33 and will be looking to get a new car.

Therefore doing all this conversion work will be a waste of money. You probably won't even be bothered to put the RB25DET back in.

would someone just answer his f**king question?

its working out cheaper for him, let it go. im sure he knows its not the best way to go but hes playing the hand he was dealt.

you'll need:

-n/a headers + exhaust.

-n/a ecu (and afm- double check that)

-re-circulating or blocked off oil and water lines.

the water lines can be fed into each other.

-oil drain needs to be blocked off.

-n/a intake pipe.

thats all off the top of my head. you'll still need to get the work engineered for the RTA to pass it as an N/A.

ring the RTA and ask them if you're allowed to do that first (as you were advised in your other thread).

thanks security finally someone answered the question

that doesnt seem like its going to cost that much

i got time so i can look around the for sale section for parts till i source them

im probably going wait couple of weeks before i decide if to go this path so if a n/a r32 or r33 comes up in my price range id prob go for that.

also the car will be p plate legal after i notify the rta of the engine change. the guy on the phone said engineering would not be necessary as rb25de came on similar model but id need a eng cert as the car doesn't have compliance plates so id probably get it wit engine change just to be safe.

Taso84 i was thinking that but then again id find trouble findin n/a r33 lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...