Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are you from America? How can you call a Stagea a "small car" :P

Anyway, you also mentioned looking for a Stagea engine..... unless I am mistaken they have an rb25det just like an r33 gts-t? What is the difference?

sorry my post is a bit confusing. i meant that the gts4 is heavy for a small car.

as someone else said the sumps etc are different between 2 and 4 wd 25's

Ah i have no doubt that within the 1st month my gearbox will be scattered all over the road somewhere!

What the use of building up a car if you dont break something along the way?

Haha you should be fine if you are only pushign round 260-280kw

The GTS4 gearboxes are strong as :) unlike the standard GTS-t ones

They are similar strength to the GTR but different ratios apparently, but yeah RIPS and a few others over here in NZ regularly run the GTS4 gearboxes with no trouble,

It's basically 3rd gear that you have to be easy on, but that goes for the GTR boxes as well, they tend to strip them if you don't change gently down the strip :S

that being said, mines still fine :) for now...although it's off the road for 6 months for "modifications"...

It might not be a 'real' gtr, but I like the fact that I can park it somewhere and not have to sit there watching it all the time, afraid of it getting pinched, keyed, etc. No-one cares about a bunky.

It would be interesting to get a gtr and gts4 on a weighbridge, for a start I have seen wildly varying reports on r32 gtr weights across the production run, the motor in the gts4 might be lighter, but the gtr has aluminium fenders and bonnet.. could be even closer than that.

I probably woudln't have bought a stock gts4, was looking at rb25 r32 gtst's. This one popped up cheap, but looked like my avatar. Spent the first two months of ownership in the panel shop getting rebuilt. Although it did come with gtr brakes, suspension, drivetrain. Gts4 diff ratios. Lots of fun. Stock motor stock turbos with 221rwkw.. so far.

james.

It might not be a 'real' gtr, but I like the fact that I can park it somewhere and not have to sit there watching it all the time, afraid of it getting pinched, keyed, etc. No-one cares about a bunky.
Then come and have a look at my passenger door. It is the same door that was fixed (from a keying incident) before I bought it.

I don't think it matters a rat's what the car is - some people just have no respect for other people's property, and will run a key along the door simply for the sake of it.

for starters the GTS4 has a GTSt's heavy bonnet, guards and boot. Swap em for GTR items and there's a good enough weight saving. The diff is pretty pisspoor compared to a GTR. Viscous LSD's suck. Good diff ratio's though... unless you own an auto GTS4, in which case you'd have the worst diff ratio of the field.

Its a GTSt that was made for going to the snow and pulling your boat around. Its not the next step up from a GTSt to a GTR.

I own one because they're so much fun to mod... you get to play with ATTESA, ABS, HICAS (if you don't rip it out) and still run a single turbo that's very daily drivable. The ECU is virtually identical to a GTSt, so modding that is piss easy (try doin that on a stagea). You can get parts from GTRs (suspension, drivetrain) and GTSt's (turbo's, bodykits etc).

To me that's exactly what I like in a skyline... "tinkerability".

they are just a 4wd gtst, and anyone who calls it a 'mini godzilla' is a knob.

What a stupid thing to say buddy. How is a GTS4 NOT a mini godzilla. It clealry is just with a smaller engine and one less turbo. It has ATTESSA it's just got less power. Keeping that in mind my GTS4 is running about 300hp at the moment and will destroy a tool in a V8 and quite a few Skylines etc. and I have great handling, and shit is it fun in the wet. For those who dont want to outlay the extra $$ for a GTR a GTS4 is a great option. And it is a Mini Godzilla. No-ones claiming it is a Godzilla. PLUS if you purchase the GTS4 then put in say and RB30DET it's cheaper than a GTR, It's got better diff gears and it'l go quicker than a GTR. You're the nob stooge.

Take it easy all.

Edited by WhatBrake
y dont u not waste all that money on it and buy a gtr like a normal person

If this is directed at me then i answer you with a "why"?

I could easily just drop an RB25 or an RB26 in and be done with it but that too easy.

THe RB20 is a HIGHLY underrated unit. I love em to death and refuse to trade up. Maybe one day.

What a stupid thing to say buddy. How is a GTS4 NOT a mini godzilla.

because its got all the weight of a GTR and none of the power. The worst of both worlds! GTR is about performance, and the GTS-4 doesn't have much of that - power, brakes, diff, track... GTS-4 was a commuter with awd, that's all. The GTS-T is a better performer than the GTS-4, maybe its a more worthy contender for the min-GTR title???

its not a mini GTR even if you add the front bar and rear spoiler :thumbsup:, its still just a heavier, slower GTS-T.

Edited by hrd-hr30
because its got all the weight of a GTR and none of the power. The worst of both worlds!
Actually its heavier than the GTR as it has the non lightweight fenders and bonnet of the GTSt, and the heavy drivetrain/chassis of the GTR :P

It was sold quite literally as the skyline you'd buy so you wouldn't get bogged in the snow, or if you wanted a GTSt that could tow a boat/jetski... in the R32 the power to weight wasn't good enough that they had to include a turbo, but in conswquent models they took that away and made them N/A.

That said, once you start modding them and replce the GTSt parts with GTR parts they can be a bit of fun.

As an aside, they used to make AWD diesel mirages for use in snowy areas. No one liked them much until one smart lad decided to put mitsubishi cyborg parts in it and made a pocket rocket. The point I'm trying to make is that one man's trash is another man's treasure. Try to keep an open mind.

hi from kiwiland

my not so baby godzilla is running a rb30det with a gtr box and it probably more fun than a stock gtr :D .

if you want to put a 25det in you can use an adapter plate between the sump and block with the rwd blocks.awd blocks are wider at the bottom to accommodate the gts4/gtr sumps.

the gts4 boxs r ok but the gtr boxes r heavier ?stronger with a very tall gears(im getting about 65km out of 1st :) )

the best post is the "r33 rb30 conversion" which covers most the 4wd mods needed for the rb30det which will be the same for the rb25det but if you're gonna put an rb25 in you might as well put an rb30 in as it gives you a bigger bang for your bucks.

p.s im pretty sure R.I.P.S uses an r33 gtr box in his 10 gts4 rb30det

l8ta

1.) stop calling a GTR a GODZILLA

2.) stop calling anything a BABY GODZILLA

3.) RIPS "now" uses a GTR box in the 10sec GTS4 but it had run a few 10's with the stock GTS4 box.

obviously it broke, just like the GTR one will eventually break.

I too had a 4 door GTS4.

piss poor performance with the RB20.

only good things was the launch. once you are moving, it's a slow heavy gutless vehicle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...