Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a money prob at the moment and can't afford the r33's fuel bill's....... pretty much stock and im getting 350 to the $65 tank (Driving casually), which is almost 5 days of driving for me asi have alot of highway driving. Is there anything i can do to increase fuel economy without being retarded. Ie I was wondering if you can say set a dual stage boost controller to boost under standard boost and the next at say slightly above standard.....

Or am i retarded? I really wanna keep the skyline as i have times when ihave enough money to take the engine past 2k rpm ;-) But for a few months I shall be poor.... Any ideas.

PS. I don't wanna numb the skyline, i still want to be able to drive it like its mean tto be drivin but was just wondering if for the other times i'm driving it if i can save petrol.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182775-save-my-skyline/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

im getting 370-400 city driving with mine, that costs me around $65 to fill. about 500 on freeway. welcome to the world of skylines. now you know why so many people have them as a weekender and not a daily.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182775-save-my-skyline/#findComment-3315683
Share on other sites

my 33 used to get 600km surburban if i was careful

If you cant afford the car, then sell it, buy a bunky and use that for the time being.

Then, if you still want a 33, buy one later and it will be even cheaper to buy down the track

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182775-save-my-skyline/#findComment-3315694
Share on other sites

Haha yea wish i had money to buy another sub 2ltr get around car. Man money sucks. THanks guy for the fast reply's! Seems my fuel consumption is pretty avg. Hate catchin the bus :-(

Do you guys know if it is possible to set boost below standard?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182775-save-my-skyline/#findComment-3315703
Share on other sites

the fuel economy isnt that bad. besides it only uses as much fuel based on how you drive it.

so if obviously you are flooring it and loading it up. if you want to see how much economy you can get give the car to your mum for a week. also are you completely emptying the tank? the needle goes past E. if you consider it empty when it gets to the E line theres about 30-40ks left (ish) before its bone empty so you are probably nearing 400ks to a tank which is good imho.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182775-save-my-skyline/#findComment-3315813
Share on other sites

...are you completely emptying the tank? the needle goes past E. if you consider it empty when it gets to the E line theres about 30-40ks left (ish) before its bone empty so you are probably nearing 400ks to a tank which is good imho.

with all due respect paul using more of the fuel in the tank will not improve fuel economy - im sure you realize this - so how about you (33Sedan) calculate your fuel economy properly and see how you go...

steps to follow: (taken from above thread i posted)

1. fill tank completely and note kms

2. drive - drive - drive

3. fill tank completely again and note kms

4. to calculate take litres it took to fill / kms travelled

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182775-save-my-skyline/#findComment-3315908
Share on other sites

fill tank

reset trip meter

drive drive drive.

fill tank

check petrol pump to see how many litres you put in.

check trip meter to see distance travelled.

Litres pumped / km's travelled x 100 = Litres per 100km

eg

40L pumped / 370km's travelled x 100 = 10.81L per 100kms

no use saying I get 350km to a tank unless you filled up, reset trip meter, drove till you ran out of fuel and broke down on the side of the road and looked at trip meter and told us that number.

that's what you get to a tank.

Edited by GTST
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182775-save-my-skyline/#findComment-3315926
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...