Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was thinking of getting one of those foam/mushroom air filters the ones made by HKS or Greddy but was speaking to someone and they said they don't filter well and sand will end up in the inake manifold and kill my engine. Anyone know if this is true?

Cheers.

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Get a name-brand one, and maintain it (eg replace/oil filter as maintenance) and it'll perform great.

If they were that bad for the car you wouldn't see them on top end time attack cars as seen in BMI videos.

Get a name-brand one, and maintain it (eg replace/oil filter as maintenance) and it'll perform great.

If they were that bad for the car you wouldn't see them on top end time attack cars as seen in BMI videos.

Yeah that's exactly what I said but the mechanic reckons they are on there because they make the outright most power, they flow the best but let the most debris throgh. I was reading on the forums and people with the hks pods say they are really loud so the part about them flowing the greatest must be true.

my old hks pod sounded the best by far, but after i got it tuned running 20+psi minimum, i did find that the foam was slowly being sucked in, clogging up my afm at the start, then once i removed afm i noticed it around my turbo mouth slightly... i now use K&N, although induction noise isnt "as" loud, its still noticible though, but filters alot better.

Edited by 2BNVS

Cant remember which magazine, think it was Zoom, did a test on different pod filters and it turned out that the foam style filters were the worst filtering out of all of them.

On a timeattack car they are only really worried about making power, not the long term life of the engine.

Definitely not a good argument to say that because a purpose built race car uses one filter that it will therefore be a good choice for a road car.

Id steer clear if possible

APEXi power intakes are probably one of the best quality filters I have seen.

Really strong design and very durable, where as the HKS foam style filters along with the TRUST ones need regular maintenance such as oiling and changing of the filament regularly.

Have seen a HKS filter at its worst, only had about 70% left what what should have been a full filter! Foam does tend to break away and get sucked in over time, especially when your running high boost.

Just play it safe and use a paper filter, they work very well and will last you a long time.

Edited by abu
Whats wrong with a airbox and panel filter?

Sounds boring? Hehe

Cant always use standard air box that easily with after market turbo's either.

Easier to just throw a pipe and pod on.

Edited by abu

AutoSalon mag tested all the popular pod filters a while back, and the best performer was a cheapo 3T Racing paper filter- can't remember the exact name. I'm sure someone will correct me.

But, yes: paper > foam

The newest HKS foam filter is a triple layer dry unit, you don't oil it. The older style oil type is a twin layer and usually purple in colour [although I've seen other colours, green, blue, yellow etc]. The new triple layer dry foam filter is a light blue.

my old hks pod sounded the best by far, but after i got it tuned running 20+psi minimum, i did find that the foam was slowly being sucked in, clogging up my afm at the start, then once i removed afm i noticed it around my turbo mouth slightly... i now use K&N, although induction noise isnt "as" loud, its still noticible though, but filters alot better.

yeah i have a hks pod it is a bit worn out and dirty might change it actually. but yeah they make a mad! induction noise

im just looking for a new element now and was wondering is there a difference with yellow element and green? is one better than the other?

also i notice there is a blue and the packet says "3 layer dry element" take it thats a better one...

wouldnt the oiled elements filter better?

Edited by 4drftn

Hmmmm..! I was/am running 2x HKS's, they seem ok to me(the Green multi-layer ones). Dyno said they were good, but thats all I can vouch for to be honest... oh, and they fit neatly under the hood too.

Anyway, they are for sale, as now got Z32's under hood.

Anyone got good, honest opinion on what to replace them with?

Sorry to Hi-jack this thread, but it is covering same subject.

im just looking for a new element now and was wondering is there a difference with yellow element and green? is one better than the other?

also i notice there is a blue and the packet says "3 layer dry element" take it thats a better one...

wouldnt the oiled elements filter better?

Can't say about the colours, maybe genuine vs non HKS???

The light blue triple layer unit is a better thing. You don't have to oil it so no afm contamination, also the third layer has a very small cell size and [it looks like when compared to the purple dual layer units] it would definitely scrub the air better.

Oiled elements do a very good job, the oil traps the dust, unfortunately - esp. if you over oil - you can get oil on the afm sensor and affect performance. Any filter that uses a prelube or oil will do this.

The real secret to having a good air filter is to clean it often and replace it as per specs regularly. And we are all guilty of overclocking at some stage.

I thought about replacing my HKS mushroom pod with a K+N/Apexi pod, but when the dry triple layer elements came out I stayed with it and just replaced the filter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
    • Run some injector cleaner through it I had a similar issue that plagued me for months, even tried replacing the cat. If one or more injectors are blocked up the ecu sees ping so pulls timing and makes the tune rich overall, you'll see black smoke coming out of the exhaust and like me assume it's running rich but it could only be one or two cylinders  $10 bottle of injector cleaner and the next time I hit boost it pumped out a huge plume of black smoke, cleared the blockage and then ran great, if that's not the issue it's only a cheap thing to try haha  
×
×
  • Create New...