Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cost to fix guesses to if possible ?

pulling the engine apart today to get the head faced ready for Tomei H/G saw this

I have limited Tech knowledge when it comes to engines and these sorta things

someone told me that the cyclinder may have just not been running right i.e coil pack issue or something

post-15018-1188790413_thumb.jpg

Edited by 1400r
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183480-burnt-valve-oil-on-valves-update/
Share on other sites

may as well chuck a set of new valve stem seals in while the heads off, from the first pic it looks like it had a manifold gasket leak out the side, which would not indicate any valve damage.

but yes, do the stem seals and check the valves and seats out that chamber that looks sus for any damage. If you do then a reseat might be needed./

Well just had the V8/truck engine builder from the shop next door tell me he thinks the rings are shot in my motor

due to the amount of oil covering the valves

he said if it was him he would through in a set of rings and bearings and maybe linish(sp) the crank if it needs it

he also didnt like the look of the oil on number 1 valve either

yippee :)

my bosses business partners are happy to through in above items in for me

just wondering if I should put in a little extra cash for better bearings or rings than standard Nissan items?

Im leaning towards ACl race bearings but Im not sure on the extra cost seeing as were I work will have to foot the bill for the repairs

I would love to go forge bottom end but I dont think the budget will stretch that far and I dont want to complicate this for the guys putting together the motor for

me seeing as they mainly work on commerical vehicles

plans are to skid the motor already have h/g for it one hoping to make 280rwkw out of it but for now standardish power

post-15018-1189216507_thumb.jpg

post-15018-1189216548_thumb.jpg

post-15018-1189216608_thumb.jpg

post-15018-1189216645_thumb.jpg

Edited by 1400r

she does look pretty sad.

hows the bores. any scratches? how was it running prior to pulling it down? and was it smoky? there is a lot of oil in all the cylinders from the look of things. did you do a comp test?

doesnt look like a burnt valve. more like 300000k old motor gunk build up.

nice thanks that makes it worse lol

just bought the motor s/h so no idea on how it was running

engine builder said the bores looked ok probably just need a hone

unfortunately a mate cleaned the bottomend before the engine builder had a chance to look at it

but he did the push on the piston left to right thing and you could seen the oil moving around the rings

nissan rings are the best. bearings are all much the same so long as the clearances are ok. ie 2-2.5 thou on the mains and 1.5-1.7 thou on the bigends.

standard pistons with 1.3-1.8 thou piston to bore clearance.

from the sounds of it its got busted ringlands. but pull the pistons out and have a look.

got the motor s/h through my work so doubt it was running ethanol in Japan

I like to do forgies but will see dont want to over complicate things for the engine builders and it may be asking a bit much

of them to put it together for me

seeing as its only a free freshin up job

mate, putting forgies will make the job easier.

when you put second hand pistons back in, there will be 6 different pistons, and 6 different bores, all with different wear. If you put new forgies in you get much easier and more consistent clearances

Reason I asked is recently I pulled the head off mine. no oil in the inlet ports, exhaust ports just a light soot over them.

Bores perfect, no scuffing or glazing.

The combustion chambers and pistons were clean, inlet valves clean but the exhaust valves where a slight tan colour.

I was told it was due to myself driving soft and the car tuned fairly lean (due to ethanol I was running and pushing 10.5-11litres per hundred), the same thing was asked of myself.. Did I run ethanol. :thumbsup:

My initial thoughts were possibly oil but was told yes it can be caused by oil but if it were oil everything would be as dirty as crap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...