Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got myself a sheet of aluminium today from the local hardware store so that I can make an air box for the pod filter. I've got the template all trial fitted so the only thing left to do it transfer the design onto the alu sheet. The only problem I see left is cutting it. The sheet is 0.5mm thick so it's not too thick. Any suggestions?

I was thinking of tin snips, they'd be fine for 0.3mm ones but i'm not too sure about 0.5mm...

Will hack saw work? theoretically, they are somewwhat "manuverable" for cutting odd shapes.....

I would use a tin snipper or an angle grinder. Depending what types of shapes you're cutting out, the hack saw could be some help if you've got one lying around. I wouldn't use a hack saw myself, I'm such a newbie using one. Snapped about 3 blades trying to cut one little piece of metal rod. :P

you sure its half a mil. thats heaps thin. wouldn't be very strong??

use a saw of some kind (jigsaw, hacksaw). aluminium just clogs up grinder discs and then they don't cut properly, the metal is too soft. if you have to use the grinder because you have no other choice go and get some 1mm stainless cutting discs, they work ok, not the best finish.

This is a weekend DIY thing so what every tool I have will have to suffice. So plasma cutters are out of the question.

yeah I'm sure they are 0.5mm and the reason I got it because it seems thin enough to cut by myself without having to enlist the help of expensive workshops and just strong enough to be useful. This is afterall just for fun. I'll try the hack saw and see how that goes.....if I can't find a hacksaw i'll have to get a tin snips....it seems to be a tough job cutting with tin snips though. We'll see tomorrow.

if you want to cut allumium with grinder you will need the "green" cutting disks also known as silicone cutoff wheels. I personally would use a jigsaw with the appropiate blade. Ask bunnings for which blade. Or use your head and rear the packet

got a circular saw?

as mentioned the alloy can clog a grinding disk, then over heat and (for want of a better word) explode. these flying parts can kill you, it has happened before.

you could get yourself a drill powered Nippler, these will not warp either side of the cut so you dont waste material.

got a circular saw?

as mentioned the alloy can clog a grinding disk, then over heat and (for want of a better word) explode. these flying parts can kill you, it has happened before.

you could get yourself a drill powered Nippler, these will not warp either side of the cut so you dont waste material.

LOL @ nippler

i meant nibbler .... what can i say its friday

Got myself a sheet of aluminium today from the local hardware store so that I can make an air box for the pod filter. I've got the template all trial fitted so the only thing left to do it transfer the design onto the alu sheet. The only problem I see left is cutting it. The sheet is 0.5mm thick so it's not too thick. Any suggestions?

if ur in perth pm me i can cut it for ya at my work. or else you using a hacksaw (will take some time) or jigsaw (just make sure your using a metal blade which is for metal and for the 0.5mm thickness)

Tin snips are the go. But there is a trick to it!

First cut out the piece fairly roughly leaving maybe 10mm of material extra beyond the cutting line. It will be tough going, and the sheet will buckle and wrinkle along the cut, because a big sheet cannot curl as it is cut.

Once you have got that far, the edges will look pretty rough wrinkly. Cut again, but this time leave only about five mm of material beyond the line. Because the piece being cut off is now very narrow, it will curl easily and the cut edge will be very clean.

Go around a third time, but this time cut right up to the line. It will be very easy to cut around fairly sharp curves, and come out with a nice clean cut with an undamaged edge, right on the line.

If you want to avoid scratches, stick wide masking tape all over the sheet, and mark out your shape with a ball point pen. Do all your drilling, cutting, filing and folding. When the whole thing is completely finished, peel off the tape, and it will have an unblemished surface.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...