Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got myself a sheet of aluminium today from the local hardware store so that I can make an air box for the pod filter. I've got the template all trial fitted so the only thing left to do it transfer the design onto the alu sheet. The only problem I see left is cutting it. The sheet is 0.5mm thick so it's not too thick. Any suggestions?

I was thinking of tin snips, they'd be fine for 0.3mm ones but i'm not too sure about 0.5mm...

Will hack saw work? theoretically, they are somewwhat "manuverable" for cutting odd shapes.....

I would use a tin snipper or an angle grinder. Depending what types of shapes you're cutting out, the hack saw could be some help if you've got one lying around. I wouldn't use a hack saw myself, I'm such a newbie using one. Snapped about 3 blades trying to cut one little piece of metal rod. :P

you sure its half a mil. thats heaps thin. wouldn't be very strong??

use a saw of some kind (jigsaw, hacksaw). aluminium just clogs up grinder discs and then they don't cut properly, the metal is too soft. if you have to use the grinder because you have no other choice go and get some 1mm stainless cutting discs, they work ok, not the best finish.

This is a weekend DIY thing so what every tool I have will have to suffice. So plasma cutters are out of the question.

yeah I'm sure they are 0.5mm and the reason I got it because it seems thin enough to cut by myself without having to enlist the help of expensive workshops and just strong enough to be useful. This is afterall just for fun. I'll try the hack saw and see how that goes.....if I can't find a hacksaw i'll have to get a tin snips....it seems to be a tough job cutting with tin snips though. We'll see tomorrow.

if you want to cut allumium with grinder you will need the "green" cutting disks also known as silicone cutoff wheels. I personally would use a jigsaw with the appropiate blade. Ask bunnings for which blade. Or use your head and rear the packet

got a circular saw?

as mentioned the alloy can clog a grinding disk, then over heat and (for want of a better word) explode. these flying parts can kill you, it has happened before.

you could get yourself a drill powered Nippler, these will not warp either side of the cut so you dont waste material.

got a circular saw?

as mentioned the alloy can clog a grinding disk, then over heat and (for want of a better word) explode. these flying parts can kill you, it has happened before.

you could get yourself a drill powered Nippler, these will not warp either side of the cut so you dont waste material.

LOL @ nippler

i meant nibbler .... what can i say its friday

Got myself a sheet of aluminium today from the local hardware store so that I can make an air box for the pod filter. I've got the template all trial fitted so the only thing left to do it transfer the design onto the alu sheet. The only problem I see left is cutting it. The sheet is 0.5mm thick so it's not too thick. Any suggestions?

if ur in perth pm me i can cut it for ya at my work. or else you using a hacksaw (will take some time) or jigsaw (just make sure your using a metal blade which is for metal and for the 0.5mm thickness)

Tin snips are the go. But there is a trick to it!

First cut out the piece fairly roughly leaving maybe 10mm of material extra beyond the cutting line. It will be tough going, and the sheet will buckle and wrinkle along the cut, because a big sheet cannot curl as it is cut.

Once you have got that far, the edges will look pretty rough wrinkly. Cut again, but this time leave only about five mm of material beyond the line. Because the piece being cut off is now very narrow, it will curl easily and the cut edge will be very clean.

Go around a third time, but this time cut right up to the line. It will be very easy to cut around fairly sharp curves, and come out with a nice clean cut with an undamaged edge, right on the line.

If you want to avoid scratches, stick wide masking tape all over the sheet, and mark out your shape with a ball point pen. Do all your drilling, cutting, filing and folding. When the whole thing is completely finished, peel off the tape, and it will have an unblemished surface.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...