Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20 Turbo.


abu
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 132
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

wow now you have me thinking lol

Just wondering what other modifications you have done?

Aftermarket plenum being the obvious one, and probably a z32, bigger injectors etc

Is the engine standard internally? How much boost to make 252rwkw and when does it hit full boost?

What size exhaust housing are you using on the 3540?

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mods list:

Apexi power fc

Apexi avc-r

Apexi intake pod (mounted in fron bar)..... shithouse in the wet - great in the dry

Custom inlet plenum with belmouthed runners

Custom mandrel bent 3" S/S exhaust

Custom s/s highmount exhaust manifold

Custom s/s dump pipe with bellows for heat expansion

Garrett 3540 turbo .7 a/r and .63 exhaust

Gen111 5.7ltr fuel pump

Gtr fmic

Series 5 550 cc injectors

Tial 38mm external gate

Z32 afm

Q45 90mm infinity throttlebody

and 1.2 bar

hope this helps matie!!!

Edited by mad032
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 3540 for under 300rwkw is a massive overkill. Not only do you sacrifice spool but you sacrifice response which greatly affects low gear acceleration.

When does it kick you in the arse? 5500rpm?

Does it kick you in the arse in the lower gears (1st and 2nd) if rolling on the throttle or does it take until 3rd gear to really get up and go?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is technically impossible. First and second will ALWAYS make boost later than the higher slower reving 3rd and 4th gears.

Especially with a turbo of such size on the 2ltr; unless you hold your foot on the brake. :P

Regardless I was talking about where it kicks you in the arse; i.e picks up/clears its throat/feels lively/free and screams off.

At 4500rpm its only making ~105rwkw; 5000rpm ~140rwkw and then 5500rpm ~190; the biggest jump in power is from 5000rpm to 5500rpm which suggests a little before 5500rpm is where it picks up and goes.

If it is making all its boost at 4500rpm its not doing a lot with it. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey guys ive got a rb20 fairly stock standard would you guys recommend a GT3071r and what would the response be like ona standard cam. Obviously thingslike exhaust manifold, Injectors ,fuel pump ecu would all be done! thanks guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

those asking about the gt2510 here are some results from my old setup bare in mind i suspect the dyno used was about 5-10kw too generous.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2184825

personally i wasnt a fan of the 2510 as it runs out of puff up top. since then i had it rebuilt into what resembles a GT2530 using a larger garrett turbine and the difference was amazing. it felt it was easily good for a REAL 225+rwkw @ 1.35bar. never had it dynoed due to tuning and workmanship issues but a huge increase nevertheless, it still lacked a lil grunt right up top....to this day even with a grinder spec turbine wheel it still spins the 18" 255 rubber @1.1bar in the dry.

personally i think chasing power under 4500rpm in a rb20 is a waste of time and money. they love to rev and are more efficient making top end power so you just need to make sure you have a good clutch and use it accordingly.

currently im thinking of rebuilding the GT2510 again with fresh bearings and using the GT2871 turbine with ext gate to get a constant 22psi out of it but i dunno how a rebuilt unit would hold up with that kind of pressure daily.....or another idea im throwing around is a GT30 of some sort to get a lil more power up top.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

personally i think chasing power under 4500rpm in a rb20 is a waste of time and money. they love to rev and are more efficient making top end power so you just need to make sure you have a good clutch and use it accordingly.

I wouldnt say wasting time and money, but i do tend to agree that sizing your turbo to be on and hiking under 4,000rpm is difficult and often only get a handful of kws at those sorts of revs between a smaller turbo and one that will make 30-40rwkws more over 5,500rpm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently bought a Garrett T3G (apparently an old'er version of the HKS 2530), its currently making 188RWKW without a tune on around 15psi, on my quite standard RB20 its making full boost (15psi) by 3200rpm in 3rd gear.

I purchased the turbo for $1000 and its almost a bolt on affair (oil line mods and turbo outlet).

Just another option for the RB20 :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can you get Sam to overlay the graph against your GT-RS and the TD06?

will do. ATM Sam's back is stuffed so he ain't working for a while.

what i can compare to is my GTRS and going from the dyno sheet the 2510 produces exactly 50rwkw more at 90kmh in 4th and 40rwkw more at 100kmh. But from 135kmh the GTRS pulls away & the graph doesn't fall off as quickly due to the bigger exhaust housing having less restriction....

I'm gonna get cam gears for the 2510 so hopefully i'll gain at least 15rwkw right up top & the power won't fall away as quickly...but cam gears are only gonna happen once you make that cooler piping for me :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

50rwkws at 90km/h! LOL, OK then, i take back what i have said earlier as most smaller turbos only seem to make 5-15rwkws more earlier in the rev range....i will take the 50rwkws at 90km/h and happily trade it for a bit of top end. My housemates STI with onkly 200rwkws is so much quicker around town then my car because it so grunty at any rev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Go to SP mufflers and get the muffler of size you want and make a nice mid muffler. It's about that simple! I have 2x 3.5 Magnaflow straight through Mufflers and while it's pretty loud with the Varex open, it's quiet enough with the Varex closed. You can also buy off the shelf Magnaflow straight through mufflers as well. You also have a turbo to quiet the car down too. Don't overthink it. Buy my extra Magnaflow muffler sitting on a shelf doing nothing (buy it new, ignore this part)
    • Centre-offset muffler under the floor, same as stock. Just....3.5". The change from straight pipe there to centre-offset will mean that you need to remake some of the pipe (add a bend or two).
    • Hey guys. So my R34 GTT has a custom 3.5” exhaust (done by previous owner) with a high flowing cat, and then just a Varex cannon muffler on the back. The car does drone alot and is really loud even on highway driving just cruising, as you can imagine due to the Varex muffler basically being a straight through with the valve open. As much as i love a loud RB, it can be a bit much with no other muffling in line and just driving casually. I wanted to lower the volume output on the exhaust a bit, as well as remove the drone (probably a way to do both at once), and was going to do it all myself as I am a fabricator and have done exhaust work in the past, so the fab work isnt my issue, im just not sure on the right product or type of product to use to get the job done, and i doubt an exhaust shop would be wanting to help me as they wont be making any money from helping me, unless they supplied the product? Anyway any help or guidance in best way to approach this would be awesome   Thanks in advance
    • Meh, whilst the Honda is a "really" good car and has potential if you want to drop coin on, it was uninspiring for me to look at, but, it did serve its purpose and is now in the boys hands, his happy, his girl is happy, as she wasn't to keen on the noisy old Patrol, and most importantly, the Minister for War and Finances is extremely happy that her "little baby boy" (6'2 nugget who is currently training to be a copper, which will make 3 coppers in the immediate "circle of trust") has a well sorted reliable car that doesn't guzzle diesel Me, I'm more than happy with the NC MX5 that I replaced it with, it's a fun little car that I like looking at, like driving, and yes..... I do like the fact that the maintenance and modifications that I have done/will do are plentiful and relatively cheap, well........ while staying naturally aspirated slow that is, and that's all I really need for a fun little daily, I can rev the 5hit out of it rowing through the gears and never really break the speed limit  In saying that wicked word, "modifications", I've already ordered something for some noise and an additional "3 ish" horse powers, or whatever it gives, in the form of a header, and, a new set of "cheapo" BC coilovers that are already sitting in the shed waiting to get put in, I had the same BC's in my old NB and found they were fine for the street, hwy, and the occasional track days I did in it, they have 6kg front and 4kg rear springs which is about 10% stiffer than the stock springs which I found worked well for their price  I've also already been in touch with MX5 Mania in Dural, so once the header is on it will get a ECUTek RaceROM tune there (I cannot rev match for 5hit, and I loved the RaceROM rev match and FFS in my old 86 "RIP") In other, maintenance news, I put some new sparkler plugs in it, and have a new set of DBA Street series pads to put in over the next day or so, I'm running the DBA street series in the SS and Honda and really like them, they work great and are not dusty at all I've also booked in a few days leave over this weekend to give me 4 days weekend do some paint correction and give the leather seats some conditioning and interior some Bissell and steam cleaning OCD lovin', the carpet and interior looks clean, but from my experience with the Bissell IRT carpet, and the steam cleaner IRT trim, looks can be deceiving I've also found that finding a detachable hard top is proving problematic, the main reason why I didn't like the NC initially was the power retractable hard top that I seen them with gave the roof line a weird look, the detachable roof though looks good, and is a same shape as a NA/NB hard top, similar, but unfortunately not the same as it has different fixture point on the front, so fitting a easy to get NA/NB detachable hard top is no bueno New Old cars are fun, cleaning, hunting and playing around brings much joy How are your beasties going? Do you still have the Skyline with the LS???, or Barra??? that you were playing with
×
×
  • Create New...