Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay. I’ve had this RB25 in the car for a while. I did the conversion myself but Ive done many others with success. The car runs like a champ, doesnt miss a beat and starts fine. No codes come up on the ECU and I have plugged in the Nissan consult and everything seems fine. Timing is good, TPS is good and I have even gone thro every sensor diagnosis procedure listed in the factory Nissan service manual.

Now the car sounds fine driving like a normal person but when your foot gets heavy and you want to go fast it just sounds like the exhaust is plugged up or something. I have normal power in low RPM but when I get up to 4000RPM it just feels held back. The engine sounds fine but you can tell by the exhaust note that’s is just not right.

I had a RB30 in the car before and it sorta felt like it had the same problem. I didn’t think much of it though as I was swapping in the RB25 so I could sell the car but thinking it was the same problem as the previous engine I thought it could be something wrong with the cars components like intercooler, exhaust and fuel system. So I unbolted the exhaust and took it for a rip and was still slow. I checked fuel pressure, changed the filter and upgraded to a high flow pump and still slow. Then I took the intercooler out and tested it and cleaned it out with cleaner and still slow. I have took apart the entire engine harness and pretty much rebuilt it. I did find a bad ground for the o2,TPS and AAC so fixed that but still the car is still slow.

I have done a basic tune up as well like plugs, packed the coils, fluids ect. I have also took the intake off the turbo to see if my turbo was still moving freely and seems just fine though one thing I haven’t checked was if the exhaust blades are still on the turbo but I still build boost like normal so didn’t think that was necessary. I have ign timing set right at 15 deg. Another thing that isn’t hooked up is the neutral switch to the ECU. Is this a problem??? I have done other rb26 conversions without neutral signals in race cars and they were fine with factory rom tuned ecu’s

This problem is going to be retarded, I know. Something really simple but I am running out of ideas. If you guys can think of anything I can check over please let me know. Any tips are appreciated. ;)

Edited by RB30 Ceffy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184352-slow-rb25-need-help-please/
Share on other sites

Slow is relative.

Now you've spent quite some time and still feel it is running weak at higher rpm and load, you should really have little problem buying 30mins of dyno time. It should provide some additional insight as to whether it really is running weak, or if you need to be reassessing what is slow or not.

Well I guess I have to hope you can take my word on this one. I personally dont need dyno time to tell me its a slow car and down on HP. A factory rb20 can eat this alive right now :( Ive done over a duzon other rb25 conversions and this one just doesnt cut it unfortunatly. But I see where your coming from. Dyno sheet would help me see where the problem might be coming from. If all is bad I might have to consider this but I dont see how I should be able to fix this in the shop. Thanks!

what about the diff ratio ?

what gearbox are you using?

remember rb25's in skylines had 4.11:1 and 4.39:1

in australia people make the mistake of putting the rb25 into the VL Commodore with the stock 3.45 ratio or whatever it is and wonder why its slow as hell but it will go up to 200ks an hour in third gear.

check your ratio's!!!

i'm having the exact same problem. everything runs right but the power is not as what an RB25DET is supposed to provide... boost reads nearly 1 bar on the boost meter but feels like RB25DE.

if Guilt-Toy is right, then i might have to change to a stock RB25 rear diff as i'm running stock Z31 300ZXT auto rear diff, 200kmh @ nearly 6500rpm @ 5th gear...

Car is a A31 Cefiro. Diff is a factory A31 unit. 4.11:1 diff and RB25 trans. The gearing is as normal as any other factory nissan.

I have changed the factory fuel pump with a nismo unit to see if that was my problem about a month ago. Pressure is fine and all lines are normal. Changed the filter aswell. Still the same after all this.

Ignition is fine, coils are mint, 180 and 1 deg signals from CAS is good. Timing is fine.

I have tried to advance the timing 5 deg and still slow. I tried to boost the thing to 1 bar and still slow.

;):(:):(

Edited by RB30 Ceffy
i'm having the exact same problem. everything runs right but the power is not as what an RB25DET is supposed to provide... boost reads nearly 1 bar on the boost meter but feels like RB25DE.

if Guilt-Toy is right, then i might have to change to a stock RB25 rear diff as i'm running stock Z31 300ZXT auto rear diff, 200kmh @ nearly 6500rpm @ 5th gear...

That diff ratio seems short and it will make the car feel faster because it will be accelerating quickly.

Car is a A31 Cefiro. Diff is a factory A31 unit. 4.11:1 diff and RB25 trans. The gearing is as normal as any other factory nissan.

I have changed the factory fuel pump with a nismo unit to see if that was my problem about a month ago. Pressure is fine and all lines are normal. Changed the filter aswell. Still the same after all this.

Ignition is fine, coils are mint, 180 and 1 deg signals from CAS is good. Timing is fine.

I have tried to advance the timing 5 deg and still slow. I tried to boost the thing to 1 bar and still slow.

;):(:D:(

Take your CAT out and check it. maybe its blocked? do you have any air leaks in the piping when on boost? maybe it only leaks on boost ?

have you put it on the dyno and checked the air fuel ratio ? i would be doing this after checking the turbo and cat

cat is fine.Dont need cat's where Im from :P

But ya. I guess I will dyno it and see what I can come up with. I dont have any boost leaks. All pipeing is fine and pressure tested it just a couple weeks ago to make sure. Didnt leak to 80PSI so thats good :D

Im going to book a dyno run maybe later this week if I have time. I was thinking along the same line as you acsplit. It feels like it pulls timing up top. Thats what made me think I had a sensor on the fritz but Ive checked it all and nothing comes up on the consult. I also thaught that the 25 would need the factory boost control solenoid. So I tried to plug that back in and with it not in and still ran the same either way. Confuses me lots but im all out of ideas. I'll get the dyno sheet up as soon as I get er done but for now keep shooting off ideas guys. Thanks!!!!!

hey mate i know this may sound way off track but it may help, u say its higher up in the rpm coul dit possibly be the vct on the rb25 not switching over to give it more or less timing ect? im dnt no a great deal about this stuff but am slowly learning and thought that this may be your problem. hope it helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...