Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I took these pics of my exhaust system. It came like this from Japan. First is the cat, and i'm not sure what it is but i'm guessing its a high-flow (or at least better than stock), and following it is this ugly muffler, before getting to the stainless canon at the end.

med_gallery_41505_7_235678.jpg

med_gallery_41505_7_180535.jpg

My questions are:

Does the exhaust look 3-inch?

Is that cat high flow?

Should i turf the muffler and get a straight pipe?

Lastly, from cat to turbo is stock piping...is it urgent to chuck that for a 3 inch dump+front pipe setup, on a stock turbo?

Thanks for the advice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184495-look-at-this-exhaust/
Share on other sites

Dump pipe - gives good gains. So its an idea to upgrade it as a thing to do.

CAT, doesnt look the same size as the rest of the piping.

And i wouldnt remove the muffler in the middle, if dont want a loud drone-bug exhaust keep the middle muffler.

Dump pipe - gives good gains. So its an idea to upgrade it as a thing to do.

CAT, doesnt look the same size as the rest of the piping.

And i wouldnt remove the muffler in the middle, if dont want a loud drone-bug exhaust keep the middle muffler.

Oh thanks. Yeh i'll definitely go the dump. I thought of keeping the muffler though i was told it causes restriction, and reduces (only a little) power.

Anything other than a straight through pipe will have power robbing restrictions to the system

However you have to consider the legalities (cat convertor) and noise level (mufflers).

If they are call 3 inch and 'hi flow' items they will be as unrestrictive as possible while still doing their job

Anything other than a straight through pipe will have power robbing restrictions to the system

Crap.

I currently have a 3.5" Exhaust, that not only passes noise tests, but will also easily flow 350rwkw, if not 400rwkw.

Mufflers correctly designed and piping correctly made, will NOT impede flow

Well i would turf the rear mufler, change the cat to a 3inch highflow as that one looks 2.5" and yes as everyone has said definetly a dump pipe and maybe new front pipe.

But yes always with doing Exhaust mods be very weary of the noise level it puts out.

why is the cat earthed? it looks like a compliance type cat, 2.5inch

a straight through muffler, ie a resonator, wont rob you of power. your's may well be straight through.

as mafia said, measure it side to side to find if its 3 inch. lol.

lol at "does it look 3 inch"

Ever heard of a tape measure?

OK so my first exhaust mod is buying a tape measure :D

I guess i'll take it somewhere to see if that's a resonator or muffler. The cat...well u guys said change it for a 3-inch so maybe it'll have to go when i chuck on a dump???

And i have no idea why it's earthed.

I read another thread saying a fat exhaust can give boost creep issues on a stock turbo that has aftermarket boost control (like mine, 11psi)...will i have boosting issues after a full exhaust system is in place?

A larger exhaust, mainly the dump pipe and front pipe will flow alot more efficiently, so you might gain 1 - 3 psi because there not as much load on the exhaust side of the turbo.

On your boost controller you will just have to wind it back or change the duty cycle if this does occur

Edited by murrayis

the laws of physics suggest otherwise.. A correctly designed and made muffler will have very little impedance on flow, but a pipe going straight through is always going to flow better :D

Crap.

I currently have a 3.5" Exhaust, that not only passes noise tests, but will also easily flow 350rwkw, if not 400rwkw.

Mufflers correctly designed and piping correctly made, will NOT impede flow

Well i'll find out if its a resonator or muffler. Can't tell myself.

Yeh I'll get a dump+front soon...its a good early mod from what everyone says :) ...and you guys say a lot! :D

Is installing the piping from the turbo to the cat a hard job for someone with decent mechanical ability? Seems like a great way to waste my afternoon :dry:

A couple of nuts and bolts are hard to get at with out a hoist, but can still be done relatively easy. Anyone with a set sockets could do it.

The input diameter of the cat looks smaller than that of the dump pipe, I'd be thinking of upgrading that to while your at it :) .

Edited by BAMR33

buy a $2 set of vernier calipers and you can tell us if the exhaust is 3 inch or not. for moderate power it looks fine. upgrade dump and front and get a better (larger) cat and you will be fine. from the style of muffler it looks like a trust system to me. I would say it's 80mm which is just over 3 inch.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...