Jump to content
SAU Community

Dump Pipes

Bo0oSt

By Bo0oSt,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bo0oSt Rising Star

Bo0oSt

Posted
Posted

Hey can anyone tell me how the JJR Split S/S dump pipes stack up against the lickes of the apexi gt spec single pipe....? im considering buying one but my mechanic keeps trying to convince me to buy this pipe made by a queensland mob called CS i think but it works out to be like 700 bux for the pipe including ceramic coating. Im just thinking what kind of advatage will the 700 pipe have over the 250 pipe and what kind of power difference would the result be. generally what kind of power increase would a dump pipe make to a car with a catback and nothing else?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184590-dump-pipes/
Share on other sites
Bo0oSt Rising Star

Bo0oSt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well thats what i thought and im not after a track car i just want a quick street car so what im getting at would be is the extra 450 you spend on the ces pipe going to give you like 10kw extra or would it just be like 5 if that

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184590-dump-pipes/#findComment-3341254
Share on other sites
Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
keep the standard dump pipe and get a EBC , it will get u a bigger power gain

Running higher boost through a factory restrictive dump pipe on an R33 GTS-T is not the greatest idea.

Bo0oSt has said the only mod his car has is a cat back system, so the best mod he can do right now is to complete the exhaust so he has a nice flowing full turbo back system, then think about upgrading his intercooler and raising the boost later on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184590-dump-pipes/#findComment-3341316
Share on other sites
Bo0oSt Rising Star

Bo0oSt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

what kind of power gain would a dump give you anyway? isn't the stock pipe restrictive so wouldnt a large pipe allow more flow? That pipe from Bos importing why would that better than the JJR it looks pretty much the same would it just be the build quality ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184590-dump-pipes/#findComment-3341327
Share on other sites
Bo0oSt Rising Star

Bo0oSt

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Running higher boost through a factory restrictive dump pipe on an R33 GTS-T is not the greatest idea.

Bo0oSt has said the only mod his car has is a cat back system, so the best mod he can do right now is to complete the exhaust so he has a nice flowing full turbo back system, then think about upgrading his intercooler and raising the boost later on.

yeh thats what i was thinking...finish the system then get a better panel filter and a fmic but even with the fmic the jjr or cooling pro kits are only like 350 when the hybrid kits are 600ish is that only because they have the hybrid stamp ? lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184590-dump-pipes/#findComment-3341340
Share on other sites
Az_StrYdeR Collaborator

Az_StrYdeR

Posted
Posted

the main reason im going with bos dump/front is the design.

The split is coming back in after the bend, which i think is a better.

The split coming on at the bend could create turbulance and upset the flow of exhaust gasses rather than making for smooth flow.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184590-dump-pipes/#findComment-3341398
Share on other sites
cheez Mentor

cheez

Posted
Posted

i got the flyn bellmouth front dump in 1. mate has jjr. we dynoed my car with the only difference being the dumos and found the flyn 1 to be 1-2kw better than the split. i was makin 178-180kw. my mates car did the same only he made 266 with jjr and 272 with flyn.

results speak loud and clear. in the top end of the power band, a dump front in 1 will give u better power figures.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184590-dump-pipes/#findComment-3341437
Share on other sites
Bo0oSt Rising Star

Bo0oSt

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

ok so the common consensus would be for me to buy which the jjr split or something like an apexi gt spec single front pipe...budget is around 400 and the ces would be a waste as its not some 300rwkw tracky

Edited by Bo0oSt
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184590-dump-pipes/#findComment-3341616
Share on other sites
S T A R 3 3 Veteran

S T A R 3 3

Posted
Posted

Hi guys. Sorry for the nube question!

Im at the stage where I want up the performance of my 33.

Currently have a 3" turbo back exhust. And EVENTUALLY in within 6 months, I'd like to have a bigger turbo for "a quick street car".

When would getting the dump pipes installed be beneficial/recommended?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184590-dump-pipes/#findComment-3342307
Share on other sites
R338OY Veteran

R338OY

Posted
Posted

I'm in the same boat here. I have a stockish R33, with cat back exhaust and pod filter. I recently added a man. boost controller. I also want a quick street car, for the odd track day too, but i'll be adding a FMIC and dump soon. I'm probably goin for the JJR ($260) dump and FMIC ($350), both from Just Jap. They're cheap and can do well up to around 300rwkW (i'm advised).

I'd be stoked for a setup where it's economical around town, then i flick a few Power FC switches and i'm peaking 220rwkW. I think that's affordable and reasonable for a daily driver that you want to have fun with :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184590-dump-pipes/#findComment-3342410
Share on other sites
The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted
the main reason im going with bos dump/front is the design.

The split is coming back in after the bend, which i think is a better.

The split coming on at the bend could create turbulance and upset the flow of exhaust gasses rather than making for smooth flow.

no offence, but I have been there and done that, and the split design is a load of shit. It will perform the same as a whole pipe. Just looks fancier.

The exhaust comes out in pulses, it doesn't "flow".

So there is no way you can upset the "flow" of gases, as its already upset when it leaves the engine!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184590-dump-pipes/#findComment-3342861
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...