Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

After having an intermittent oil burning and low comp problem, today i pulled apart my engine.

I found an unacceptable amount of piston slap on all cylinders...

Number 6 top ring came out in about 3 pieces. This would explain my intermittent comp.

Number one ring was split in half.

All of the rings looked like this, the rest intact apart from 1 and 6:

Cross section:

post-17897-1190018986_thumb.jpg

All intake components are spotless, free of dirt etc, cooler was cleaned when engine was built. HKS pods.

When the car was tuned, the tuner advised me that the knock sensors werent working, as they heard knocking during tuning and had to take boost out, it didnt read knocking on the pfc, but the tune was fine.

All ring lands are not broken, acl pistons and acl steel rings.

What causes this to happen to the rings?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185425-so-i-pulled-my-26-apart-today/
Share on other sites

well mate im no engine builder or tuner but if your knock sensors wernt working how could they tell if its wasnt nocking any more after they turned the boost down just cos u cant hear it dnt mean it aint knocking, and also maby the machine work was not accurate enough maby the piston to bore clearance was to big ect

why did you proceed without working knock sensors dude? thats like guarantee'd rebuild.... :(

I did not proceed with the tune, the tuner did and told me after when i picked it up.

So detonation causes this problem?

Minor detonation over a period of time has pounded the shit out of the rings and worn them out like the pic?

well id say its all a tuning issue. were the pistons at all pitted? with the good pistons/rings.. install them and check the ring gaps. (top and second)

Nar no pitting.

Check the ring gaps of the worn out rings?

why did you proceed without working knock sensors dude? thats like guarantee'd rebuild.... :)

Not really, if you have the correct det listening equipment they are not needed.... think Haltech, Microtech etc

It is way to often i see the PFC knock meter used to tune cars, it is an indicator.

all decent tuners will be using something like this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=176922 those who arent are winging it.

The guys are right, a tunner who does power FC's and relys on the knock sensors should not be tunning an engine full stop.

Give them a real ecu like a haltech, autronic motec etc and see em freak trying to figure out what real detonation is.

On aside not the cross sectional area of an ACL ring (actualy made by mahle) is that exact shape from new.

If the rings are cleanly broken its more than possible they have been like this since installation and its the builder fault not the tunner. "most" engine issues wont smash rings before they do damage to the lands. You issue sounds very much like an assemble problem.

But if they dont rely on the knock sensors how do they know if there is detonation or not? yes by use of the standalone knock sensor equipment but why mention the knock sensors werent working?

The rings are blue around the inner edge, as if they have gotten freakin hot, and the outer edges are very sharp. I really dont think they are meant to be like that.

Is there any sort of testing of the rings to find out what has caused this?

Could there be anything else that may also have done this to the rings?

Not for anything but this engine has already cost me thousands from the first build, and more thousands are being spent - again. I just cant have this happening again.

Ive spoken to a few people and another possibility was dirt entering the engine, but from where? All manifolds etc are spotless, as is the cooler, the engine has never been run without filters...

installation errors

Oh and from memory the rings that ACL use with their RB26 pistons are meant to be solid rectangular 1st ring and stepped 2nd ring so its possible you rings were put in arse about as well. (yes it does matter)

Those stepped rings are a very brittle matterial and easy to break when installing too.

Edited by Risking
installation errors

Oh and from memory the rings that ACL use with their RB26 pistons are meant to be solid rectangular 1st ring and stepped 2nd ring so its possible you rings were put in arse about as well. (yes it does matter)

Those stepped rings are a very brittle matterial and easy to break when installing too.

Im 90 percent sure the 2nd rings were stepped as well liek theyre sposed to be, but ill double check tomorrow, havent got the pistons here.

you still need to get a feeler guage and chech the ring end gap.

as brad said. it aint screwd together right.

and on the tuning thing. torque production is an indication of timing. you increase it till it stops making torque. it wont ping for a a while yet. but thats how timing is usually done, pump in timing till no more torque is produced. theres no point adding timing if it stops producing a posative increase in torque.

But will the reading be valid? Both top and second rings are worn, obviously more so the top rings.

and if the rings have worn on the outside then ill have a wayy bigger end gap.

Ill measure them tomorrow anyway, ill see if i can measure whats left of the top rings in terms of the step in the pic above.

Hey all,

After having an intermittent oil burning and low comp problem, today i pulled apart my engine.

I found an unacceptable amount of piston slap on all cylinders...

Number 6 top ring came out in about 3 pieces, some of the ring was missing too. This would explain my intermittent comp, would have been pieces of ring under my valves...

Number one ring was split in half.

All of the rings looked like this, the rest intact apart from 1 and 6:

Cross section:

post-17897-1190018986_thumb.jpg

All intake components are spotless, free of dirt etc, cooler was cleaned when engine was built. HKS pods.

When the car was tuned, the tuner advised me that the knock sensors werent working, as they heard knocking during tuning and had to take boost out, it didnt read knocking on the pfc, but the tune was fine.

All ring lands are not broken, acl pistons and acl steel rings.

What causes this to happen to the rings?

You say you have unacceptable amount of piston slap , like how nuch clearence? What was the clearence ( piston to bore) when it was built? Was the ring gap meassured in the bore ? if yes what was the gap? Are the bores worn now? Can you still see the crosshatch hone ? How was th engine run in?

My guess is that the piston rings were broken in assebly or maybe you didn't have enough gap and they broke when they got hot and expended. I can't realy say without knowing the answers to the above . Don't forget when using forgies you have to have bigger piston to bore clearence than cast pistons .

like dave said measure the gaps on the ones that AREN'T broken. obviously you can't measure the end gaps on the ones that are failed, but measuring the others should give you an idea as to whether or not it's an assembly problem.

Since he says that there is piston slap, I would take it that the (forged) piston to bore clearance was taken into account. However, it may not have been down according to the specific piston manufacturer's specs. I had a previous engine have that much piston slap that I could physically move and see the pistons left and right in the bore. Next rebuild was much tighter and engine was perfect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
×
×
  • Create New...