Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Generally means one bulb is out, or technically, there is not enough resistance in the system.

Checked all the bulb, and/or installed LED lights anywhere?

Thats about it from my experience.

Ok so the full story is that it was dying a slow death. I'd indicate and three click in I'd get two fast ones, then three good ones again. I figured that was the sign for "replace the globe", since it was on the rear left that wasn't working. So I did, but it didn't change anything, and now a few days later, it just clicks fast all the time and I have no indicators on the left hand side.

Sorry, read this and I didn't post.

Have you got the indicators in your mirrors?

I had similar behaviour from mine when I picked it up from the alarm installer, ended up they'd knocked the wiring for the mirrors, and because they're scotch locked into the main harness the scotch lock had cut through the wiring.

Wiring is down in the drivers footwell, behind the panel forward of the door.

Not sure if that's what it is, but worth checking. It was flashing fast all the time and I had no indicators in the left hand side, but the LEDs in the mirrors did.

Sorry, read this and I didn't post.

Have you got the indicators in your mirrors?

I had similar behaviour from mine when I picked it up from the alarm installer, ended up they'd knocked the wiring for the mirrors, and because they're scotch locked into the main harness the scotch lock had cut through the wiring.

Wiring is down in the drivers footwell, behind the panel forward of the door.

Not sure if that's what it is, but worth checking. It was flashing fast all the time and I had no indicators in the left hand side, but the LEDs in the mirrors did.

I'm not finding much. >_<

Mine doesn't have the mirror indicators so I may be barking up the wrong tree.

Actually, thinking in the same mindset of Ryan's situation (cable slowly being "pulled" or broken, which makes sense in my situation), is there a cable from the ECU that would stop the indicators working for just one side of the car? I did do the wire snip mod on the same day as the indicators started becoming intermittent.

Ah ha!

Found this document (not sure if it's really that relevant), but it at least pointed me in the right direction..

http://www.psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/coupe/2003/bcs.pdf

Went searching and found that there's a pink and.. yellow? cable down there that had some electrical tape around it. Seemed a bit suss, so I took the tape off and sure enough the solder had come undone. I suspect that when my alarm was installed the installer cut this wire by accident and soldered it up but while I've been under there it's come loose. Anyway it's all fixed up and working now so I'm stoked! :thumbsup:

Ah ha!

Found this document (not sure if it's really that relevant), but it at least pointed me in the right direction..

http://www.psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/coupe/2003/bcs.pdf

Went searching and found that there's a pink and.. yellow? cable down there that had some electrical tape around it. Seemed a bit suss, so I took the tape off and sure enough the solder had come undone. I suspect that when my alarm was installed the installer cut this wire by accident and soldered it up but while I've been under there it's come loose. Anyway it's all fixed up and working now so I'm stoked! :thumbsup:

Awesome, good work!

Hmmm turns out I didn't fix the problem.

If the BCM was stuffed, would it permanently not work? Or be intermittent? Intermittent seems like a cable contact issue don't you think?

Are the BCM's easy to swap in and out? Is it just a matter of unplugging it, putting the new one in and plugging that in? If I can borrow another one just to test it would certainly make troubleshooting a lot easier.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Im loving this thread. I have a g35/900 t4 split 1.00 ar going on my rb30/25 with 9:1 and 264 cams. its drive by wire and with vct i think it should spool nicely. I have the 8speed gearbox on the floor ready to go on so full boost changes will be a thing if the tyres can deal with it. it should always be on boost
    • The trouble for me is the automatic takes away so much from it. And the E92 has hydraulic power steering. Even after putting in an LSD you're looking at re-mapping the xDrive to be more like a Skyline which is just a lot of effort for something that is supposed to be easier and cheaper. I consider the E92 335i 6MT to basically be the obviously superior car to something like an R34 GTT. Half the price out here, the N54 makes so much more power so easily, is a far more refined car, etc. You do have to deal with the nightmare of the N54's foibles vs the B58 which is comparatively miles better and if a turbo does fail it's only one of them vs two and a lot less pipe spaghetti.  996 or 997 Turbo has the AWD system mapped like a Skyline. Basically always RWD unless engaging the front axle makes sense. A coworker let me drive his 997.2 Turbo 6MT and it's absolutely tremendous. I don't think I'd want more power in a street car.
    • I'm purely suggesting, what every multinational business out there presently does! And the world governments all day it's legal.
    • That's awesome. Fully serviced/full log book history for one of those cars is super rare from what I know. With JDM's like Skyline's, Supras, are quite hard to find one with full log book history. S15's seem to be somewhat of an exception, at least the spec s australian delivered models.
    • Hey all, It's been a bit since I have been able to update.  I pulled the fuel pump, first off it was a "universal" pump and the strainer was very clogged, and it was folded over on itself.  I replaced the fuel pump and all is well....  No more stalling.
×
×
  • Create New...