Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What temps have people had their M35s up to?

Little worried last night's overheating might have caused problems. It seems fine, and I understand M35s run warmer anyway, just like to put my mind at ease.

I have seen 125 degrees with an airlock in the system, and 116 on the straight at PI. Hopefully no bubbles in your radiator or overflowing coolant reservoir and you should be fine. That said, I am rebuilding another VQ25det atm due to a blown headgasket from overheating...

I finally got the 350 x 400 x 50mm trans cooler in tonight, that should take care of the gearbox temps. I still have to install the fan controller, there is a 9 inch Spal fan on the trans cooler and a 14 inch on the engine oil cooler. Both fans should turn on at a preset temp once I wire it up. Not much room left in front of the radiator now... :)

I finally got the 350 x 400 x 50mm trans cooler in tonight, that should take care of the gearbox temps. I still have to install the fan controller, there is a 9 inch Spal fan on the trans cooler and a 14 inch on the engine oil cooler. Both fans should turn on at a preset temp once I wire it up. Not much room left in front of the radiator now... :)

Pic?

Very reassuring guys, thanks. Sooner I can get the Mishi in the better!

Funny thing about the coolant reservoir. Not sure I've ever seen the level change. Not sure if that is good or bad. Been the same level since I got the car 18 months or so ago.

Pic?

It was pitch black and beginning to rain, with lightning on the way. I was glad to have it finished before the storm hits. Shame there is no room for the hoist in the shed. :(

The trans had the thermostat inline and also ran through the radiator so there was no problem getting it up to temp quickly. I had issues keeping the temps under control though. The fluid comes straight out of the torque converter into the cooler lines, mine was seeing stupid temps as around 30kw is lost as heat in the converter at full noise, quite often enough to boil the coolant in the radiator.

I have removed the radiator fittings and thermostat from the lines so there will definitely be issues getting the temp up now. Hopefully it will still warm enough to drop into 5th fairly quickly, if not I will re-fit the thermostat.

Very reassuring guys, thanks. Sooner I can get the Mishi in the better!

Funny thing about the coolant reservoir. Not sure I've ever seen the level change. Not sure if that is good or bad. Been the same level since I got the car 18 months or so ago.

It will definitely rise once you double the amount of coolant in the system. What pressure cap are you running?

It will definitely rise once you double the amount of coolant in the system. What pressure cap are you running?

The Nismo cap. 1.3... Bar?

Car has never been overheated though, and I've never done anything to the cooling system... Until the cooling mod.

It must have had a large airlock in the system, you need to recheck the coolant when cold for the next few mornings any time you dump it and refill.

I took 2 pics for you guys, the fittings on both coolers are touching the plastic undertray so run the full height of the radiator. Hopefully the Mishimoto will still do its job. This is all possible due to the intercooler being cut down and moved forward, bolted under the intrusion bar.

post-63525-0-67975100-1354276986_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-62217100-1354277003_thumb.jpg

I also got around to fitting the fan controller for both thermos and for displaying trans/oil temps. Kewish have asked me to modify a few of the signals going back to the TCU, including both temp signals and the main line pressure solenoid. Should be interesting to see what I can do manually with regards to line pressure, and the best part is, no more limp mode if the fluid gets too hot at the track. :)

I need to paint the control panel stealth black yet, if I cbf...

post-63525-0-67777100-1354796321_thumb.jpg

No Navi in the base model... ftw... :)

I can now run full line pressure, (farkin hard shifts), or factory adjustable line pressure with variable adjustment using the TFT temp knobs. Seems to work well on around 60 degrees from my quick play today. It's off to Kewish next Wednesday for pressure readings, I think they will be impressed with the mods. :)

So can i get one thing straight , these air bag like fault/issue lights come on basically due to 'cheap' wiring of sorts ? Or were they connected incorrectly , like the example with the person saying that their battery was going flat and then the airbag light comes on ? :S

Edited by RB25SEB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...