Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Info

Brazen

By Brazen,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

nickcorr
nickcorr

Skyline Registrations in Japan: Bodystyle/Engine 3.7 Coupe 2.5 Sedan 3.5 Sedan 3.7 Sedan 3.7 SUV________Total Market cars... 09_____________983_______3,398______20_______860_____1,601_________

andy65b
andy65b

Not a bad result..

And
And

Ok, guys from Moscow approached me today. They have a "demo" version ready, now they need a brave person in Perth who's got a car DVD based Xanai unit (M35 Stagea or Skyline up to 2005). This gotta

Posted Images

slippylotion Mentor

slippylotion

Posted
Posted (edited)

No I haven't swapped them yet. I just looked up the overall heights of the Kumho and Bridgestone, then measured the tread depths and it works out that the bridgestone is 9-10mm shorter in height than the Kumho. Would it be fair to assume this is to much of difference and causing it?

Even then if just that one tyre is replaced with a new ku31 that tyre will be around 4mm taller than the other 3. Surely Nissan has given enough margin to allow for something like this.

Edited by slippylotion
PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

As much as this sounds funny, the same size in two different brands are not exactly the same size. Try pumping up or letting down the bridgestone and see if it has any effect. That is not a permanant solution obviously, but might give you some evidence.

slippylotion Mentor

slippylotion

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well I borrowed a set of factory wheels to see if that fixes the 4WD light issue I'm having. It didn't fix it. The s/hand Bridgestone they gave me measured up at 12mm shorter overall height than the ku31, thought that would be the problem but not looking like it. I

'm going to try and sus out the relay and see if that the problem.

How can I check if there is a code to check? Is it read out of the ECU or the attesa control module?

Edited by slippylotion
bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

If you get desperate Paul let me know, and we can swap over the relay. Worked with Mike's, he tried pumps and all sorts and I think it was relay in the end. As soon as I put his relay in my car, I had a fault light and 2WD.

slippylotion Mentor

slippylotion

Posted
Posted

If you get desperate Paul let me know, and we can swap over the relay. Worked with Mike's, he tried pumps and all sorts and I think it was relay in the end. As soon as I put his relay in my car, I had a fault light and 2WD.

I might take you up on that offer Ryan. I can't find one locally to try it so that would be great if we can swap to test.

When is a convenient time to try it?

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

I believe its based in the ABS computer, not the engine ECU. I don't know of a manual way to see error codes, but I'd just hook up my cipher cable/laptop if you were in sydney.

Maybe one of the general code reader that mechanics have can read ABS too?

0t1 Contributor

0t1

Posted
Posted

faaaaaaaaark what a long thread, packed full of great information, thanks to all the contributors.

However I did not see the actual story on how to eliminate the problem I'm having, which is, How to get the wagon to do a burnout! I have TCS off. it will light up a little when I launch, but stand stills are shit.

Also what exactly does the wire cut for transmission lock up do, I am considering wiring the brake and trans' mods to the TCS switch, to make it the FUN switch.

NZJP have told me they will have the workshop mannual ready in 3 months, they advertise on Trademe the NZ trader site.

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

faaaaaaaaark what a long thread, packed full of great information, thanks to all the contributors.

However I did not see the actual story on how to eliminate the problem I'm having, which is, How to get the wagon to do a burnout! I have TCS off. it will light up a little when I launch, but stand stills are shit.

Also what exactly does the wire cut for transmission lock up do, I am considering wiring the brake and trans' mods to the TCS switch, to make it the FUN switch.

there are a few options to be able to do burnouts

1. sell your stagea and get a commodore

2. grow up and dont try to do burnouts in car designed for AWD

0t1 Contributor

0t1

Posted
Posted

there are a few options to be able to do burnouts

1. sell your stagea and get a commodore

2. grow up and dont try to do burnouts in car designed for AWD

commodores are not my friend, chocolate is!

I'm too old to grow up, and I am quite iresponsible

My car is RWD

oh and I'm a drifter, D1NZ

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...