Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

excelent. cos i find on sweeping corners it just frys the rears and the inner front. chopping out tyres real fast. so really if it reduces wheelspin on the track it would pay for itsself in using less tyres :mellow:

excelent. cos i find on sweeping corners it just frys the rears and the inner front. chopping out tyres real fast. so really if it reduces wheelspin on the track it would pay for itsself in using less tyres :mellow:

yes, correct it does help even up tyre wear

when we are launching from a start line, our car use to most times only spin one front wheel, now its all four in a blaze of glory!! :(

russ

Edited by giant
Is there any real advantage to a carbon LSD like ATS make that justifies the difference in price?

well I think the big advantage is you get to tell people you have a carbon diff. but unless they are going to remove your engine and sump and check you can do that anyway and no one will know the difference.

to be honest I don't think it's really necessary. In theory the carbon disks should have some better properties and perhaps they last longer but in reality I don't know how much better (if at all) they are. I've used a carbon clutch and it was great but i'm not tossing my convential clutch in the bin to get one. Cusco diffs are cheap at around $1000 mark and perform very well.

well I think the big advantage is you get to tell people you have a carbon diff. but unless they are going to remove your engine and sump and check you can do that anyway and no one will know the difference.

to be honest I don't think it's really necessary. In theory the carbon disks should have some better properties and perhaps they last longer but in reality I don't know how much better (if at all) they are. I've used a carbon clutch and it was great but i'm not tossing my convential clutch in the bin to get one. Cusco diffs are cheap at around $1000 mark and perform very well.

I thought as much. I had heard carbon clutches need a lot of heat to work well so weren't suited to drag racing. I thought there may be some benefit in that for circuit work but wasn't really sure as I haven't actually heard of anyone using one. Maybe useful for chasing 0.001 seconds a lap when everything else is exhausted but unjustified for everyone else.

I can't really comment on the carbon lsd because I've not used a normal plate front lsd. I've used Kaaz and ATS. The Kaaz rear lsd in the honda is noisy but it's been overtighten. The front ats in the gtr is perfectly quiet after the break in process.

Does your make any noise on reverse Russ and what diff are you using in the rear?

  • 2 weeks later...

Good thread guys - great info.

I busted my front spider gears at the recent Dutton VIC on a launch and turn incident on the long wang @ DECA, so i've got a Nismo 1.5 way front LSD going in this week. The Nismo was slightly better priced than the others and came with gaskets / bearings too where the others didn't seem to.

The Z-tune has the 1.5 way, so I thought it would be ok. I guess i'll be able to give a progress report soon, but.....

I'm told that the ATS 1.5 way front diff was apparently a case of rip the steering wheel from your hand when mounting ripple strips etc, so what we actually intend to do is soften off the 1.5 way Nismo, so that it reacts more like a 1 way. Anyway my thinking was more aimed at replacing the sucker as to increase the strenght over a stock unit, because missing out on 9 events while driving back to melbourne and back again wasn't all that fun.

I'll report back what I think of it on the track when the car comes back.

  • 4 months later...

Be careful when jacking car up to fit front tyres that you dont tighten the wheel nuts up while car is in the air. Locks the front diff up and can result in a car spearing left on 1st launch, and a very dirty racesuit.

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...