Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Front Lsd. Who Has Used One?

Beer Baron
 Share

Recommended Posts

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

excelent. cos i find on sweeping corners it just frys the rears and the inner front. chopping out tyres real fast. so really if it reduces wheelspin on the track it would pay for itsself in using less tyres :mellow:

giant Mentor

giant

Posted
Posted (edited)
excelent. cos i find on sweeping corners it just frys the rears and the inner front. chopping out tyres real fast. so really if it reduces wheelspin on the track it would pay for itsself in using less tyres :mellow:

yes, correct it does help even up tyre wear

when we are launching from a start line, our car use to most times only spin one front wheel, now its all four in a blaze of glory!! :(

russ

Edited by giant
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Is there any real advantage to a carbon LSD like ATS make that justifies the difference in price?

well I think the big advantage is you get to tell people you have a carbon diff. but unless they are going to remove your engine and sump and check you can do that anyway and no one will know the difference.

to be honest I don't think it's really necessary. In theory the carbon disks should have some better properties and perhaps they last longer but in reality I don't know how much better (if at all) they are. I've used a carbon clutch and it was great but i'm not tossing my convential clutch in the bin to get one. Cusco diffs are cheap at around $1000 mark and perform very well.

Willo Proficient

Willo

Posted
Posted
well I think the big advantage is you get to tell people you have a carbon diff. but unless they are going to remove your engine and sump and check you can do that anyway and no one will know the difference.

to be honest I don't think it's really necessary. In theory the carbon disks should have some better properties and perhaps they last longer but in reality I don't know how much better (if at all) they are. I've used a carbon clutch and it was great but i'm not tossing my convential clutch in the bin to get one. Cusco diffs are cheap at around $1000 mark and perform very well.

I thought as much. I had heard carbon clutches need a lot of heat to work well so weren't suited to drag racing. I thought there may be some benefit in that for circuit work but wasn't really sure as I haven't actually heard of anyone using one. Maybe useful for chasing 0.001 seconds a lap when everything else is exhausted but unjustified for everyone else.

9krpm Mentor

9krpm

Posted
Posted

I can't really comment on the carbon lsd because I've not used a normal plate front lsd. I've used Kaaz and ATS. The Kaaz rear lsd in the honda is noisy but it's been overtighten. The front ats in the gtr is perfectly quiet after the break in process.

Does your make any noise on reverse Russ and what diff are you using in the rear?

  • 2 weeks later...
Scotsman Veteran

Scotsman

Posted
Posted

Good thread guys - great info.

I busted my front spider gears at the recent Dutton VIC on a launch and turn incident on the long wang @ DECA, so i've got a Nismo 1.5 way front LSD going in this week. The Nismo was slightly better priced than the others and came with gaskets / bearings too where the others didn't seem to.

The Z-tune has the 1.5 way, so I thought it would be ok. I guess i'll be able to give a progress report soon, but.....

I'm told that the ATS 1.5 way front diff was apparently a case of rip the steering wheel from your hand when mounting ripple strips etc, so what we actually intend to do is soften off the 1.5 way Nismo, so that it reacts more like a 1 way. Anyway my thinking was more aimed at replacing the sucker as to increase the strenght over a stock unit, because missing out on 9 events while driving back to melbourne and back again wasn't all that fun.

I'll report back what I think of it on the track when the car comes back.

  • 4 months later...
Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted

Be careful when jacking car up to fit front tyres that you dont tighten the wheel nuts up while car is in the air. Locks the front diff up and can result in a car spearing left on 1st launch, and a very dirty racesuit.

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...