Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

finnally got my rb30det in and running in my r32 so i thought i would show you guys some pics to let me know what ya think...

here are the mods.

- stock bottom end

- blocked rear oil feed

- rb25 oil pump

- rb25de head (r32)

- gtr valve springs

- stud kit

- 1.6 mm cometic gasket

- new valve stem seals

- sard 550cc injectors

- 040 fuel pump

- gt30r (r31Nismoids old one)

- turbosmart 45mm pro gate

- Z32 AFM

few other bits and pieces...

post-24129-1190615678_thumb.jpgpost-24129-1190615809_thumb.jpg[attachmen

=120786:rb30_dyno.jpg]

engine runs great!! went to dr drift to get it all tuned.. i was hoping for 300rwkw but i only managed 230rwkw on 13psi because i used rubber joiners for the intercooler so i have boost leaks!! as soon as the silicon ones come in i will be going back and uppping the boost to around 17-18psi and see what happens.. what do you guys think?

post-24129-1190616034_thumb.jpg

Edited by lwboosted
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186433-my-rb30det-r32/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I think it's great. Let us know the outcome and any other issues you have to overcome.

Is the external gate feed welded to the stock manifold? If so did that pose any great problems for whoever did it?

Do you know what is the compression ratio and what pistons were used?

Any porting work done?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186433-my-rb30det-r32/#findComment-3370216
Share on other sites

yeah traction is a big problem atm.. with my 18s and 255s on the back i dont get any till i am in 4th gear.. LOL!!

i have used a stock bottom end so stock NA pistons.. i used a 1.6mm head gasket so i dont know what the compression ratio works out to be.. round 8:3:1 maybe a bit lower.. and no i had no porting done on the head

i got the manifold and gate on the the first turbo setup i had on the rb20.. it has been cast welded on and is really smooth and done really well!!! i think the manifold has been ported out a bit and were the pipe comes out for the gate is exactly were they all come together... it holds boost really well thats why i have kept it for this setup. and the fact that if i get a dumb cop he thinks it looks stock..

i have taken out the aircon and going to make a intake pipe run down and hide the pod under the powersteering pump.. then put the stock airbox back and run a dummy intake pipe to the other pipe to keep it all looking stock.. only problem i have is the masive gate sticking out the side!! haha i can take some close up pics if u guys want and picks of the intake once i have made it... atm i just have the filter in the front of the turbo..

but i must say i recomend this conversion to every1 owning a r32!! the car drives so much better and takes the slug feel away from the rb20!! when off boost its a completely different car to drive.. and the engine has only costed me $1000 !!

Edited by lwboosted
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186433-my-rb30det-r32/#findComment-3370391
Share on other sites

how so cheap?

stock bottom end, so he didnt change pistons, rings etc so that makes it alot cheaper, and if you can do the labour yourself you save bucks there aswell.

Congrates on the conversion, keep everyone posted when you turn up the wick a little :whistling:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186433-my-rb30det-r32/#findComment-3370521
Share on other sites

Looks great..

And on a mainline dyno which here typically reads ~10-15rwkw lower than a DD Dyno.

The n/a pistons with a 1.6mm headgasket will drop the static comp to a little under 8:1.

So it should make some reasonable power on pump fuel when you start pushing the boost in to it.

Get those baby cams out of it. (240dur inlet, 232dur exhaust) and you'll pick up a good 25-30rwkw on the same boost once you start pushing over 250rwkwish. :whistling:

It appears to be nosing over a tad quickly.. Is that rpm scale correct? Double checked cam timing as it can be a bit of a pain in the arse to get right due to it being a 'custom' setup.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186433-my-rb30det-r32/#findComment-3370571
Share on other sites

yeah it turned out so cheap because i did all the work myself and have used a stock bottom end.. and the reason i did that is because i only paid $100 for the complete bottom end and when it blows it will only cost another $100 a slab of beam and a free weekend with mates instead of the thousands of building a built bottom end with a little bit more power that you cant really use anyway..

what sort of price would i be looking at for those cams? they sound like a worthwhile upgrade.. oh and thanks cubes for all your help with the engine couldnt of done it with out your help..

stock ecu remapped by dr drift

what compression ratio did yours turn out to cubes? we have very simillar mods.

Edited by lwboosted
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186433-my-rb30det-r32/#findComment-3370589
Share on other sites

Was devastated we didn't get to wind it up... can't wait to finish it off :P

RPM Scale - This is a guide only and was done as an rpm vs road speed from the tacho.

Tuning was by no means finished, even on minimum boost, due to severe boost leaks :whistling:

Edited by Dr_Drift
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186433-my-rb30det-r32/#findComment-3370675
Share on other sites

Atreyu - yeah i have done everything my self with a lil help from mates.. did the usual stuff to the block as described in the rb30 thread i kept the 1.8mm resister up front and welded the rear up.

dropped the engine in, in one weekend, had it running the sunday night at 1am!! with the help of about 5 mates and 2 slabs of beam... to drop the engine in, i welded up the holes in the mounts and re drilled them 12 mm lower and then put 10 mm spacers between the k frame and the chassy, turned out quiet well.. the strut brace doesnt fit back on but i will just moddify it and make it fit.. i am lucky i have all the equipment available.. did it at my factory where i have a forklift, 2 mig welders and a tig welder so it made my life alot easier!!!

TO4GTR - why do u think i need to upgrade the 040? i i have pleanty of fuel there and i havnt had a problem with surging or anything.. i am still using the stock fuel reg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186433-my-rb30det-r32/#findComment-3370709
Share on other sites

How much did the cast pipe on the manifold for the external gate cost?

And is it right in the middle - getting even distribution?

Reason I ask is that I have a spacer for the ext. gate that sits between my turbo and manifold, I havnt put it all on yet but it looks like it may just not fit. But I wanted to place the gate at the most optimum position.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186433-my-rb30det-r32/#findComment-3370741
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...