Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Whats the difference between normal GTS-t series 2 and Spec M.

I have just put in front mount intercooler. The standard intercooler is bigger in spec M than normal series 2.

I dont know any other differences? I have searched but cant find much on it.

Is the turbo the same?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186463-skyline-gts-t-spec-m-series-2/
Share on other sites

BIgger or smaller, they are all made to handle the stock poewr level without breaking a sweat. Any significant increase in power would require a bigger intercooler anyway....so a small increase in SMIC size is really a moot point.

but what are the differences?

do you have M spec?

The only "M Spec" is a rare R34 GTR of which shit all are in Australia.

What you are reffering to is Type M!!!!

The Type M R32's came with 4 pot brake calipers (front) thats about it. Some had body kit, 16" rims, climate control but that could all be optioned on 32's anyway, different dealerships offered a different combination of add on's with the type M.

So essentially, sayin you have a type M doesn't mean anything, just about every gts-t is type m

The M-spec is sexy. I think it was the luxury version of the 34 GTR's.

The type-m was just a package as far as I know. A package with the optioned things as standard? I'm sure a search will answer that though.

^^^ Correct,

any series 2 R33s are type M's

As far as i know the only difference is the side skirts, rear pods and POSSIBLY the lip on the front bar???

Everything else would either be aftermarket or a series 2 thing, not a type m thing...although as said, type M's are series 2 r33s anyway.

You can have a R33 Series 2 type LM aswell

its the series 2 R33 with the gtr vspec Active LSD

Actually it was known as the 'GTS25t Type M Active LSD', not 'Type LM'.

Infact even before R33 GTS25t type M.. All series II R32 GTS-t's were type M SOOO ever since 1991 all 2 door GTS-t's are type M...

there was 1 r33 GTS25t type G but that was a 4 door

So unless you have a R32 GTS-t series 1..( which can be a type M ).. or unless you have the Rare 4 door type G then you definately have a GTS-t type M..

:P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It could be in the tune but in both cases it couldn't be completely solved or eliminated by some of the best tuners in victoria so I'm DOUBTFUL that it's in the tune or ECU but stranger things have happened of course. I've pondered that theory too but is there any theories that thinner and smaller ports overall would cause a turbo to spike? I would've thought it would just restrict it in general if it was small enough to make a difference. I wouldn't expect it to make a different at what is essentially sub 300kw at 4000rpm anyway. I think the next step is going to have to be the 6psi spring to rule out the idea that the gate is cracking open far too wide initially. At least that is the cheapest (free) thing to check initially.
    • I'm thinking it is skinny NA Neo port sizing and cams. Somehow.
    • -5’s did it. 8474 did it. Not hot side related. ECU related? 🤨🤪
    • Above you mentioned you only need to sand primer if there's an issue with it but with fillers it says the surface needs to be sanded to X grit beforehand. Does that sorta contradict that point as the primer hasn't been sanded yet? At the same time if I sand the primer, there's a good chance I'll expose the bare metal and I'm just chasing my tail at that point. Or I'll just use a sand sponge instead of sandpaper, it seems to be far finer in terms of abrasiveness as opposed to sandpaper. From what I understand, filler is like primer and needs scratches from the sandpaper to help it adhere to the panel. I realised the way I'm doing things is actually a bit counter productive as there's a chance after I put filler I will need to put epoxy primer again as opposed to putting the filler first and potentially no primer if I don't go to bare metal. Will keep this in my mind for the rest of my repairs.
    • Not without making up a new screamer pipe from scatch I don't think based upon the angles of the current return. Backpressure shouldn't be an issue though as the straight gate isn't affected by backpressure in the same way that a poppet valve is, and on top of that the exhast system is 4" all the way through so there should be minimal pressure if any to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...