Jump to content
SAU Community

Cat Converter Flow

silverr34gtt

By silverr34gtt,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

silverr34gtt Enthusiast

silverr34gtt

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

Iv got a r34 making around 250Kw @ the wheels.

My exhaust is 3 inch turbo back, HKS dump, HKS front pipe, jjr cat, Trust PE 2.

Would the jjr cat be ok for this application. Has anyone had a problem with a jjr cat?

Its the only chinese part on my exhaust and i was wondering if i should upgrade it.

Cheers :whoops:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187665-cat-converter-flow/
Share on other sites
khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys,

Iv got a r34 making around 250Kw @ the wheels.

My exhaust is 3 inch turbo back, HKS dump, HKS front pipe, jjr cat, Trust PE 2.

Would the jjr cat be ok for this application. Has anyone had a problem with a jjr cat?

Its the only chinese part on my exhaust and i was wondering if i should upgrade it.

Cheers :whoops:

do they quote CFM or flow? that will answer ur question, if ur stressed take it off and de-cat...get some flames.

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted
They say they tested it to 570 cfm.

some brands quote some big numbers, saw some tests ages ago somewhere...most we're not as high as they quote. CATCO or Metal Cat were pretty good from memorym Metal Cat are pretty much the premium..

Assuming they are full of shit (better than 75% chance) and 570 isnt a huge number in the scale, you could do better,

  • 2 weeks later...
Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys,

Iv got a r34 making around 250Kw @ the wheels.

My exhaust is 3 inch turbo back, HKS dump, HKS front pipe, jjr cat, Trust PE 2.

Would the jjr cat be ok for this application. Has anyone had a problem with a jjr cat?

Its the only chinese part on my exhaust and i was wondering if i should upgrade it.

Cheers :down:

I think you will find they are X-Force Cats, not JJR that Just Jap offers with the 570cfm rating.

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

i think you will find not much (if any) difference between any cat on the market

unless your cat is actually blocked or stuffed in some way then changing form one type of cat to anther will do absolutely nothing

..you may go slightly faster because the car is lighter from the loss of money in your wallet, that's about all..

limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted

I actually went from an X-force cat to a metalcat and i got a fair power increase at the same boost level after a tune...202rwkw to 211rwkw...its all because my tuner was able to dial in about 4 more degrees of ignition timing with the better flowing metalcat...if its bothering you just upgrade it...it won't be a downgrade anyway....

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted
I actually went from an X-force cat to a metalcat and i got a fair power increase at the same boost level after a tune...202rwkw to 211rwkw...its all because my tuner was able to dial in about 4 more degrees of ignition timing with the better flowing metalcat...if its bothering you just upgrade it...it won't be a downgrade anyway....

fine, but 100% of the upgrade came into the tuning of the car

i'm sure you could have dialled more timing into the original system and still have seen a power increase

that, and 10rwkw can be accountered for between days and intake temps.

i'm not convinced.

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted (edited)
I actually went from an X-force cat to a metalcat and i got a fair power increase at the same boost level after a tune...202rwkw to 211rwkw...its all because my tuner was able to dial in about 4 more degrees of ignition timing with the better flowing metalcat...if its bothering you just upgrade it...it won't be a downgrade anyway....

i had a similar experience. went from an xforce ceramic high flow cat to a stainless internal highER flowing cat.

my tuner also said he got more power coz of less restriction. there was an immediately noticeable midrange gain when driving it right after the tune.

if you ask me, it makes a substantial difference.

Edited by Munkyb0y
Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted (edited)
dyno graphs?

the flux capacitor i installed in my V35 made heaps more midrange but you'll have to take my word for it

dyno numbers, temps, settings etc aside...

there was an immediately noticeable midrange gain when driving it right after the tune

get my point? thats not something you can fudge on the dyno

Edited by Munkyb0y
limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted

Here is the dyno graph as proof...final power was alittle more because boost was turned up even more after the initial 211rwkw run...

217rwkw.jpg

Now...fair enough the concrete visible power gain came from the tune...but i did immediately notice a gain in midrange after the new cat...and that was with a large resonator put in at the same time...as for being able to dial in more timing...well...thats the thing...we couldn't...it would just start detonating...we were scratching our heads on this one for awhile...and i bit the bullet and changed the cat as i was suspicious of it all along...anyway...take what you will from this...i'm just saying that its not that inconceivable...and i know i'm convinced...

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted (edited)

you've admitted that

a) you've upped the boost

b) you've had a tune

i appreciate that you have the graphs and at the end of hte day if your old cat didn;t enable to you tune it properly then its fair enough

and as i said in post #7 "unless your cat is actually blocked or stuffed in some way" which is clearly what yours was if it was causing the car to detonate

but i strongly believe for someone with a working cat of any brand, changing to a different one isn't going to do squat. obviously changing from a 1" cat to a 4" cat is going to but that's not what we're arguing here. we're arguing same diameter cats but one of a different brand with a slightly higher cfm rating..

yet to see solid proof in my 4 years having a skyline and browsing the forums

i went from a 3" GUTTED cat to a 3" x-force and noticed NO difference in power whatsoever.

Edited by WazR32GTSt
666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

MetalCAT brand cats are only good for about 100kms though aren't they? I've seen 5 of them delaminate from the internals with a minor misfire on the dyno.

Magnaflow metal substrate all the way!!!!

I'm with Warrren, going from a 3" highflow ceramic to 3" highflow metal did didly on the squat meter...didn't notice a thing.

limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted

I see where you're coming from too mate...the thing about my Xforce cat is...the guy who took it off asked me why i was changing it because it was in perfect nick and apparently a "high flowing" item as well...even without a retune i immediately noticed a increase in midrange and the car came on boost so much quicker...so in my case...even though the old cat was in perfect nick...the metalcat still made a noticeable difference...i personally wish i didn't have to spend almost $400 for the metalcat but at least it was worth it in my case...

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

lol, limpus i swear i'm not copying you. but i had the same experience. when i put the xforce ceramic on, my car actually felt laggier, less responsive, and developed a crazy drone around 2k rpm. i took it off, went back to the old one. then replaced that with a stainless internal highflow, and bam, better response, better everything. thats my personal experience, not my opinion.

limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted (edited)

Glad to know at least a few other people have had similar experiences...the difference to me was noticeable even though i had a slightly restrictive resonator put on at the same time...not to say the Xforce cats are bad...but when chasing bigger power it makes sense to get the highest flowing item on there...then again...we could always decat the thing but thats illegal so i won't suggest it...lolz...

Edited by limpus

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...