Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

He guys. On my RB25 neo, Whats above the alternator and can leak coolent? Water pump? Ive got a slight leak coming from there. Nothing big just annoying. Could be a gasket i guess to.

Anyone else had this problem before?

Thanks Luke

Heater core perhaps... depends how the neo is laid out. ive just fixed a coolant leak from behind the rb26 which was heater core, replaced 3 hoses... cost a fair bit cause they had to remove the starter and some other shite to get to it, but im glad its done... i lost 2 litres of the nissan coolant, and that shyt is $14 per litre ;|

-D

He guys. On my RB25 neo, Whats above the alternator and can leak coolent? Water pump? Ive got a slight leak coming from there. Nothing big just annoying. Could be a gasket i guess to.

Anyone else had this problem before?

Thanks Luke

ah top hose, temp sensor, could even be thermostat or lower hose. If it was water pump it would be more likely to run down the side of the block.

ah top hose, temp sensor, could even be thermostat or lower hose. If it was water pump it would be more likely to run down the side of the block.

^^^^^all these plus

havent looked at mine but the RB's have a hose under the intake plenum for coolant, hides slow leaks well? and they rot out, comes out near alternator or starter area

waterpump leaks end up under the front pulleys area or on the ground below front covers, check the weep hole under the pump, pretty sure the neo have one most cars do. if the fan rocks a tiny bit when you wiggle the fan the pump is on the way out? could be a day or a year?

we can have a peek if your coming to show and shine ?i have a coolant leak detector, let me see if i have batteries for it, bring it if i do

haha the rick rolling started tonight on the 31 forums..ah.. funny stuff..i got sum people aswell...ah i am the king!

until you have people asking to have you banned and start receiving pm's from mods to knock it off, youre not.

just found your rickroll, im surprised more than one person fell for it, talk about poorly executed, saying "dont ban me" sorta gives the game away.

Edited by scandyflick

Cheers guys, Its running down the drivers side of the block all the way to the sump and staining it. Looks like its coming from the block near the alternator.

Hope its not to hard to fix. Might do 100k service soon to then.

I think its easier to learn something when you have some kind of physical application to cross reference...

You can read about something as much as u want, unless you actually see how it works in real life you won't understand the references

At least thats what I've found about myself... I could read a whitepaper 10 times and still not understand it.... attempt to implement it on a running machine, while maybe breaking the system, I'd usually do it in half the time it'd take me to read the damn manual.... then again im a linux engineer by trade and the documentation often sucks so learning the systems yourself are usually the best route anyhow

I agree totally. The easiest methods of teaching is visual, verbal and practical. When I was tutoring Accounting at UniSA, I found relating exercises to things the students did in everyday life helps. If they can picture the application, they can understand it.

BTW I loved maths (I got to, I'm a bookkeeper and drafter for urban planning, which requires numerical skills). One day I'll figure out how to arrange those letters after my name :)

to be honest penny,never even heard of it..lol better google it

I use Castrol Edge for now

I ask because a guy at my work used to import it and now makes it, I have read a bit about it and I like what I read.

Would like to know if anyone has put it to the test here!

www.ulx110.com

ok everyone calm down.

Ripper is obviously young and didn't think about what he was posting or thought about the ramifications.

Ripper, please tone it down.

Everyone else, give the kid a break. I have deleted and cleaned up the posts. No more - I don't have time

I ask because a guy at my work used to import it and now makes it, I have read a bit about it and I like what I read.

Would like to know if anyone has put it to the test here!

www.ulx110.com

Hmmm , I think I would stick to a well known and tested brand

there is a oil thread on the main page to SAU

On that site it says extended oil changes???, well oil also removes crap from combustion and contaminates, still needs to be changed per nissan specs or more if you live on dirt roads or race it.

it looks to be based more for service trucks that get oil changes on time ever time

so many better choices I think???

how much does it cost do you know?

makes it himself???,, what is it from chip shop oil..lol

On that site it says extended oil changes???, well oil also removes crap from combustion and contaminates, still needs to be changed per nissan specs or more if you live on dirt roads or race it.

it looks to be based more for service trucks that get oil changes on time ever time

You implying something here? :)

Hmmm , I think I would stick to a well known and tested brand

there is a oil thread on the main page to SAU

On that site it says extended oil changes???, well oil also removes crap from combustion and contaminates, still needs to be changed per nissan specs or more if you live on dirt roads or race it.

it looks to be based more for service trucks that get oil changes on time ever time

so many better choices I think???

how much does it cost do you know?

makes it himself???,, what is it from chip shop oil..lol

Its more legit then that haha.

Its sold in a few different Dyno shops, Its around the same price as your top quality synthetic oil so around $75 i think.

They are an American company but he now makes it here (properly in a factory with chemit chemical guys etc).

Im going to do some more research!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...