Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

u do realise that a NA engine has more torque due to the fact it dosent have forced induction to get everything going?

That i do and would work in theory......but i would still like to compare your torque figures with mine.....regardless anything else....

http://www.news.com.au/story/0,27574,25857567-29277,00.html

on another note....Australia's oldest hoon driver bahahaha

Edited by Krishy
That i do and would work in theory......but i would still like to compare your torque figures with mine.....regardless anything else....

http://www.news.com.au/story/0,27574,25857567-29277,00.html

on another note....Australia's oldest hoon driver bahahaha

Despite being able to immediately impound the car under anti-hoon laws, the driver was allowed to continue on his way. He has been ordered to take his car to a police station tomorrow, where it will be impounded.

"The speed he was travelling at ridiculous.''

Yet they let him continue driving to his appointment ... even when he showed no care for the 160kph+ speeds he was doing? :pirate: What if he'd killed someone after the cops let him go???

in the report the old guy even confessed to driving even faster before......he said lucky you didnt catch me before....i was going faster....

I mean seriously WTF is wrong with the police....i bet you if it was a 18 year old kid behind the wheel then he would be behind bars and car either impounded or crushed......talk about the cops always having double standards.....

in the report the old guy even confessed to driving even faster before......he said lucky you didnt catch me before....i was going faster....

I mean seriously WTF is wrong with the police....i bet you if it was a 18 year old kid behind the wheel then he would be behind bars and car either impounded or crushed......talk about the cops always having double standards.....

Mate, I've seen 50+ year olds driving hyundais hooning thru traffic and they get away with it day in and day out.

Altho I did see justice last night at Regency Park. P-plater with mates in his "taxi" Falcon edging me to race him at the Regency Rd lights heading north on South Road. I gave it a quick squirt right up to 70kph (speed limit) ... 10 seconds later they screamed past me at about 100kph. The traffic cop (whom I noted was there earlier when I drove past) on his bike was hiding on the other side of the road, pulled out, gave chase and they got nicked :pirate: Yeah, I set them up a bit, but they didn't need any encouragement anyway. :P

how was everyones day?

Same as yesterday really, so-so. Woke up at 11, had breakfast, moved a garden shed, started surfing the forums, watched the chasers war on everything, and played some cod5 coop with a mate. Tomorrow i am back at work, i find that i am rather bored unless i am going something...such as working.

How about you?

only na nissan engines worth driving imo are v's over 3.5 litres.

u do realise that a NA engine has more torque due to the fact it dosent have forced induction to get everything going?

wut?

yes solid lifters, lower emissions levels , and if its a series 2 it has higher torque cams in it. the output goes up to 206kw as well

  • RB25DET - twin-cam turbo (T28 Turbo) (245 to 250 hp and 319 N·m)
  • NEO RB25DET - twin-cam turbo (206 kW (280 PS) @ 6400 rpm, 362 N·m (37.0 kgf·m) @ 3200 rpm

________________________________________________________________________________

___________________________________

Released in 1998, the R34-series Skyline engines have a big emphasis on reducing emissions.

The existing RB25DET was reengineered to NEO specs, which apparently produce around one-tenth of the CO, HC and NOx emissions levels allowed under Japan’s 10-15 test mode. Further changes include a ball-bearing turbo, slightly larger intercooler, free-flow exhaust and revised ECU (which allows up to 10 psi boost). revised in late 2000 bringing extra torque (probably through a bit of extra mid-range boost).

Not sure where the RB25DET engine torque figure listed above came from, but it's actually quoted by Nissan as 30.0kgm at 4800rpm - just under 295Nm.

If one were to take the RB25DE and RB25DET minus it's turbocharger and compare the torque output, the naturally aspirated RB25DE would indeed make more torque, due to the 10:1 vs. 9:1 compression ratio. Now add the turbocharger back into the equation, where it rightly belongs on the RB25DET, and 230Nm vs. 295Nm tells the story.

If one were to take the RB25DE and RB25DET minus it's turbocharger and compare the torque output, the naturally aspirated RB25DE would indeed make more torque, due to the 10:1 vs. 9:1 compression ratio. Now add the turbocharger back into the equation, where it rightly belongs on the RB25DET, and 230Nm vs. 295Nm tells the story.

Correct, however an N/A 25 will never make more torque than a turbocharged 25. Hence my "what the!?!?!" :)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...