Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nah no bogan, im not into incest

i do like aussie muscle tho.. xu1/slr5000 toranas, chargers, xb/xc fords...never got into monaros tho... i also like american muscle (57' thunderbirds, 67 camaros, corvettes, pontiacs firebird & fieros etc)

they're the exception to the rule sadly, most australian (and american) cars are utter garbage. much to my chagrin.

-D

Edit - and while I detest 4wd's, f150s/250's are quite ruggedly over-engineered

I probably should of used italics. Each to their own, I do like some of the aussie and yank classics too

Anyone know why i would have shocking fuel economy? Getting roughly 250-300ks a tank.

That's shocking :P , i used to get about that with my car, not sure what its gonna be now after the retune etc.

yup new O2 sensor time, I replaced mine recently (4wire wired up to 3wire connection)

I love the Corvette Stingray, 67' is a classic but Id love a 77'. With a twin turbo 6.0litre V8.

Also love the TA-22 77' Celica, with a RB25det she'd be awesome

As for 4wd's - I hate the size of the things, but recently we got a make-believe 4wd, the Ford Escape 02'.

not a bad car whatsoever, very roomy inside (enough for 4x 200cm tall adults + luggage comfortably), but not that huge on the road. easy to handle.

very happy with the purchase at $6500 incl. tyres, airfare and petrol melb-adl. spending $500 on it atm thru Boostworx and its in top notch condition.

also dropping in the injectors, setting up the ecu and tune, on the 8th. cant wait. Boostworx of course

:P

Pulled the engine cover off the RS250 race bike today, found some bits floating about in there that shouldn't be! One part was a dowel pin or piston pin by the looks of it! :P The other part looks like a bit of the casing damaged by the pin. I reckon someone has intentionally dropped this pin into the oil cap hole to f**k the engine up. A bit pissed off as it could have been dangerous as it jammed up at about 170kph at the track at the time I noticed the noise. Lucky its only isolated to the clutch basket and kickstart gearing, and not the crank or barrels. Anyhow, now I gotta rip the engine down to make sure its all okay. :P

That sucks Rubes.

We sent an engine off to get rebuilt once, when we got it back they told us that they found a tappet in the sump :P

Yeah, I figure if I'm ripping the engine down for look for other problems, I might as well rebuild with new pistons etc, and AF1 heads. The engine is barely 500kms from its last rebuild, but its compromised now. And at 9,000rpm and 200kph on track, I can't afford a compromised engine. I'm also shopping for a spare engine too, just in case it pops in the middle of the season.

My racing budget is already hit hard now, and I haven't even started the season yet. :P

250-300 kms to the tank? ouch, i'd hate to see your fuel bill.

Managed to crack out a solid 600km this weekend on one tank in the 31 with 290,500 kms on the dash. Mind you, that was highway driving to Victoria.

250-300 kms to the tank? ouch, i'd hate to see your fuel bill.

Managed to crack out a solid 600km this weekend on one tank in the 31 with 290,500 kms on the dash. Mind you, that was highway driving to Victoria.

that was slipstreaming me jakey

and nice dirt turbo too at the first piss stop :thumbsup:

true jake, very true. a fridge like mine would be gangster as in your mo-bile

oh, and as for our discussion last nite on the maccas run

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...-1-t285710.html

does anyone know what would cause a battery to spark and go all smokey (on the negitive side) when trying to start a car?

happened on my drift car today, gonna get a new battery but not keen on it happening again.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...