Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering what would be a good intercooler and good size core for a GTR. brands im currently looking at are PWR, ARC, Blitz, Trust and Nismo(if i can find a place who sells them, and a price)

i know it will be a case of "what do you want to do with the car" forget that phrase, doesnt mean anything to me as i will still do what i want in the end!!!! just want peoples opinions on the brand, how well they work and whats a good sized core(thinkness wise)

thanks. James

Edited by Turbz_13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188618-intercooler-selection/
Share on other sites

Just wondering what would be a good intercooler and good size core for a GTR. brands im currently looking at are PWR, ARC, Blitz, Trust and Nismo(if i can find a place who sells them, and a price)

i know it will be a case of "what do you want to do with the car" forget that phrase, doesnt mean crap to me. just want peoples opinions on the brand, how well they work and whats a good sized core(thinkness wise)

thanks. James

Well that phrase should mean everything to you. Someone could suggest you get a massive thick trust drag item that will create lag when you're after response, or vise versa someone could suggest a smaller core when you're after 30 million rwkw's and it'll choke top end power. All of those intercoolers work briliantly for there intended purposes. As for you intended purpose, no one can tell you how well they work for that if no one knows...

I would say the stock gtr cooler is good for up to 350wkw for street applications. The stocky is around 60-ish mm if im not mistaken.

For anything over that, most people go for something like 600x300x100.

Edited by Yawn

Whats the benefits in going over 75mm, I live in darwin its damn hot all the time.

Is a quality 100mm core going to restrict flow to the radiator much over a 75mm.

Is there going to be a major change in response. Have a crappy bent up fins 100mm at the moment so have no idea what stock was like

And looking for an upgrade running 2530's poncams powerfc usual mods and more for track than drag but keen to do a little of both

and the odd motorkhana just the usual stuff

Sorry if this is a bit of a hijack but seems I am in a similar situation

The standard GTR intercooler isn't shabby at all, pretty good core design and pretty much perfect end tanks.

I invested in a custom ARE built intercooler after changing to group a turbos and it certainly was significantly better than the stock unit with the bigger turbos. www.are.com.au

If you throw away the idea that the cars purpose has anything to do with intercooler selection then you lower your odds of getting the best. ;)

as far as im aware, not sure if the 33 and 32 gtr cooler is the same but the 34gtr cooler is good for 500HP... so if the older style gtr coolers are the same it shud see u to 350rwkw easy. but seeing as its an old car now i wud prob go for a good 75mm cooler.

Here is the deal. for what you want go for a core thickness between 70mm and 100mm. I have seen and sampled lots of coolers and the ones that stand above the rest are ARC and nismo. both can be had around $1500 or so. Me, I would go the ARC, but the nism one is top notch too. for you I would go 70mm for 350rwkw 100mm is overkill and will just starve your radiator of air more than anyting else.

I agree Beer Baron and Ronin_09, as im using a 70mm ARC unit myself, with similar power output to what you want.

You can get the Nismo gear from Nengun or greenline etc., or a few traders from this forum can import one for you too.

my 32 GTR also has GRP A turbos and with the usual mods STD intercooler saw 320 ATKW with 20 PSI intake temps were fairly high and after a few runs was loosing power, and detonation was a real issue, there were a few options, cooler sprays or upgrading cooler.

I was going to go for a TRUST drag cooler or ARE cooler, the prices quoted did not fit my budget ($ 1800)!!

decided to get one of those cheap EBAY coolers ($380) 120MM thick and never lookled back after fitting up it made same power on 16PSI with minimal preassure drop. with 22 PSI made 460 RWHP and intake temps were no probs even after re-tuning on a summers day.

by running twin compressors it pushed the air through quite well (compared to big single) and only changed boost range by 400 revs. NO LAGG!!!!!!!!

water temps didnt move that much.

Cheers

Be aware that the thicker core you go the more you need to cut from your front bar to fit it.

a 70mm core is probably best for fitment and would suit what you want. ARC, Trust and HKS will do the job.

Nismo stuff will not be any better than ARC but about 30% more on the price tag. Both are direct fit items if you buy the correct one.

decided to get one of those cheap EBAY coolers ($380) 120MM thick and never lookled back after fitting up it made same power on 16PSI with minimal preassure drop. with 22 PSI made 460 RWHP and intake temps were no probs even after re-tuning on a summers day.

120mm thick is overkill for that application and you would see more response from your setup with a more reasonably sized core.

not all large upgrades require cutting the bar. mine, only a slight mod of bonnet latch and removal of one of the two horns.

Yep i agree a bit of overkill but as stated only cost $380,

and dont forget that a lot of the "better" branded items are now made in china, possibly even the same factory????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...