Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm very close to trading my GTO in for a Stagea. There are two i am looking at, at dealers, Neo manual etc both have about 70,000km on them, what do you think they are worth as a dealers price? one is $22,000 which is basically just a stock Neo Manual stagea and the other has twin sunroofs central locking keyless and a nice quiet exhaust for $25,000. Both cars are very neat an in very good condition. both Auction grade 4

What do you guys think and is there anthing I should be looking out for inparticular??

Thanks in advance,

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188867-new-stagea/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

I'm very close to trading my GTO in for a Stagea. There are two i am looking at, at dealers, Neo manual etc both have about 70,000km on them, what do you think they are worth as a dealers price? one is $22,000 which is basically just a stock Neo Manual stagea and the other has twin sunroofs central locking keyless and a nice quiet exhaust for $25,000. Both cars are very neat an in very good condition. both Auction grade 4

What do you guys think and is there anthing I should be looking out for inparticular??

Thanks in advance,

Dave

Hey Dave its Brad here from 3si forums, i got a stagea and they are a great car for smoothness and room, go a manual for sure, the auto is not very fun. They need a bit of work to match the 272awkw of the gto though :D

good luck in your hunt for one and give me a PM if u need any help with stageas as ive done a fair bit to mine over the last 3 years :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188867-new-stagea/#findComment-3406304
Share on other sites

you should check the prices on Jspec. They are agent for private imports.

Just keep in mind that's not an on road price. You will also need to pay rego, stamp duty, any inspection fees, any labour to make the car standard (to get it registered), and usually tyres.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188867-new-stagea/#findComment-3406373
Share on other sites

Hey Dave its Brad here from 3si forums, i got a stagea and they are a great car for smoothness and room, go a manual for sure, the auto is not very fun. They need a bit of work to match the 272awkw of the gto though :D

good luck in your hunt for one and give me a PM if u need any help with stageas as ive done a fair bit to mine over the last 3 years :P

hey Brad...

I'm really going to miss the zero lag monster GTO but I'm thinking that a manual Stagea will be the best of both worlds. I still have some performance parts from my old R33 so I can just slap them on plus Ill be taking some parts off the GTO before the trade so I'm hoping to have the Stagea with around 250ish rwkw which I think is achievable and still be quite streetable.

I have decided not to go auto as I think ill get bored..

Are the Series 2 manuals sluggish? How do they compare to a stock R34 GTT? I'm not excpecting to much as I'm going to be modding it in the near future. I already have a plan of attack.

I know there is no direct ECU replacement for the Auto's but is there one for the NEO manual??

Thanks

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188867-new-stagea/#findComment-3406535
Share on other sites

recon a s1 260rs is do-able for 25k?

There is an S1 260RS on J-Spec for about 26k, landed and complied.

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=11083

"approx 580hp"

Long list of mods but id assume its been 'driven'. A lot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188867-new-stagea/#findComment-3406778
Share on other sites

Have seen a stock 97 autech on j-spec for 17k but report said "faded paint" and had 140 thou klms. Good car if u wanted to bring one over and repaint it and rebuild the engine to make it your own car and original but not great if you wanted something you could just jump in and expect to clock up 50,000 carefree klms i guess.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188867-new-stagea/#findComment-3408089
Share on other sites

Hey Dave for 250awkw u are gonna need a bigger turbo, something like a gt3040r is a good start and capable of 450rwhp or so if u ever want more. I would upgrade the suspension firstly as the stock ride is soft and boaty :w00t:

I would go a 260rs if u could afford it, but dont buy one if u are in the lower $$$ market of 260rs's or u might end up with a peice of shit. A rs4 manual is still a good buy and comes with the stronger gtr rear end, etc. I thought my rs four was abit sluggish but i went from 350rwhp vl calais to the stagea and it felt smooth but abit slow. I definately feel the extra weight in the stagea when accelerating (unlike the gto) but cornering wise with the stagea and the sydneykid coilovers it handles awesome compared to my gto with tein flex coilovers.

overall the stagea is a great car for the money

Edited by unique1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188867-new-stagea/#findComment-3408148
Share on other sites

I know there is no direct ECU replacement for the Auto's but is there one for the NEO manual??

R34 powerFc will work with out of the box but requires a minor wiring modification to get around the PFC's hunt for traction control on the R34 which, unmodified, will throw up an engine check light.

there are numerous other options appearing out there all them discussed in forced induction section.

HKS GT-RS or GCG hi-flow will get you close to or exceed your target hp but consider some tomei 260 deg poncams as they make more power everywhere and well worth the money.

Edited by wolverine
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188867-new-stagea/#findComment-3408915
Share on other sites

Cheers guys,

The dealer am going to happens to have an Autech there but I'm wanting this car to be a comfortable daily not a handful like the GTO.. I really want to get the Autech but I can help myslef and within a few months it would have new turbos, ecu, injectors etc!!! And I just dont know if it is the best car to just jump in and clock up km in.

The way I am looking at it is that the Neo is cheaper and newer (update look and interior) and with the extra cash I can install the performance mods and hopefully have it quicker than a stock Autech and still have money in my pocket. Rememeber I have a few nice performance parts at home from my old Skyline.

I'm quite happy about the PFC working though, does anyone know where you can get them from these days?? I saw Nengun have them advertised but are they still available as the prices looked quite cheap!

It would be bloody nice though!!

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188867-new-stagea/#findComment-3408924
Share on other sites

The Autech's are very nice to drive as a stocker but when you start throwing the cash at them they become like any other car. Mine has 500rwhp and is a bit of a dog, its still a daily driver though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188867-new-stagea/#findComment-3409944
Share on other sites

The Autech's are very nice to drive as a stocker but when you start throwing the cash at them they become like any other car. Mine has 500rwhp and is a bit of a dog, its still a daily driver though.

haha Ken what makes it abit of a dog? heavy clutch? too noisy? stiff suspension?

i find mine is definately not daily driver material with the twin plate clutch, lumpy cams, noisy exhuast (need another muffler) and stiff suspension is even annoying at times lol.

Dont u love it how when u start modifying that u assume a 500rwhp car could be a nice smooth comfortable daily cruiser without any negative aspects :)

I love my stagea but it gets abit much at times when u just want to cruise around in comfort and not create shit loads of attention for the wrong reasons haha (for sounding like a hoon)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188867-new-stagea/#findComment-3410073
Share on other sites

I will be modifying the stagea... ther only decisions im going to have to make is which turbo and ecu.. Im thinking PFC.. but Im not sure if ill go HKS GTRS or something like a GT30?? What do you guys think?? are the GT30's really laggy? I mean in the Stagea do you really notice the extra lag because they are so heavy?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188867-new-stagea/#findComment-3413611
Share on other sites

I will be modifying the stagea... ther only decisions im going to have to make is which turbo and ecu.. Im thinking PFC.. but Im not sure if ill go HKS GTRS or something like a GT30?? What do you guys think?? are the GT30's really laggy? I mean in the Stagea do you really notice the extra lag because they are so heavy?

Extra lag has been known to help with fuel consumption around town, so don't let that put you off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188867-new-stagea/#findComment-3413641
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...